Surfing the Waves of Life

Why do we keep doing it?

2012-01-21T15:57:00.000-08:00

Had an interesting conversation while surfing the other day.

A guy I haven't seen in years paddled over to me and recognized

me. Like me, he has been surfing a long long time. In fact, when

he asked me how long I've been surfing, for the first time ever I

said 50 years. Oh my God 50 years! There is absolutely nothing

else in my life I can say I've been doing 50 years and still feel

stoked to do.

What is it about surfing that keeps us so obsessed? My friend and

I tried to exchange theories. Perhaps it's the absolute "in the moment"

nature of riding a wave. No past, no future, no thoughts about chores,

no anxieties about the future, no regrets about the past. It's totally

about surfing that wave at that moment. Maybe it's the beauty we

get to see sitting in the ocean, tuned in to nature and the cycles of the planet?

Perhaps it's the peace we get from surfing. How often have you felt

lousy or been in a foul mood than gone for a surf and come out feeling better?

Mind, body, spirit, all ties together.

To non surfers it must look pretty repetitive. Ride a wave, paddle back,

catch a wave and repeat over and over again. Yet even non surfers seem

to love watching.

A perfectly lined up set wave approached and our conversation ended.

Cycles and Lessons

2012-01-09T14:28:00.000-08:00

It might seem odd to state the obvious, life goes on. Each day

the sun comes up, the tide changes, and the sun goes down. We

all know that we'll have periods of surf and flat spells, good offshore

winds and winds that aren't cooperative. We'll surf small waves as

well as big waves. Unless you live in a tropical place the water

temperature will go up and down. That's just the way it is and will

always be.

What can we learn from the cycles of our lives as surfers? Are you open

to looking? Everything changes. Some changes are good, and some bad,

for nothing stays the same. We often go through our surf lives with the

support of the same people. How long have you surfed with the same

crew? How many waves have you shared? How many swells have

you experienced together? How many life events have you all experienced

together?

As you begin 2012, another year, take a moment to appreciate the cycles.

Relish the friendships. Learn the lessons. A noted wise man once said that

there are 2 things we can use the past for; to learn lessons, and remember

the good things. Let that guide you as you surf the waves of another year.

Stay healthy, happy, and at peace.

Gratitude

2011-09-26T13:49:00.000-07:00

What a wonderful morning, in fact it was a pretty

wonderful weekend. I got to surf a fish, longboard and

SUP, spend time with friends and family, and enjoy a

nice surf related event. I am very grateful to be able

to enjoy life.

Being grateful has the power to make a difference. A week

or so ago I had a big gap in my work schedule and headed out

for a surf. After being in what was pretty ordinary surf for

a while the wind went offshore and the swell, courtesy of

a hurricane, began to grow. Each set was bigger than the one

before. I was riding my shortboard and having a blast, then

I looked at my watch. Bummer, I thought, just as the waves

are getting really good I have to go back to work. I'm sure you've

been there, ready to be frustrated and a little mad about

leaving pumping surf. That's when it hit me. Be grateful that

you were able to surf at all I thought. Be grateful not angry.

My mood and outlook changed instantly.

Being grateful for what you have rather than focusing on what

you don't have or missed out on is a strategy that instantly

creates peace. Try it. Enjoy the wave you ride rather then the

set wave you missed. Enjoy the time you spent in the water

rather than be frustrated at having to leave. Give it a shot!

Entitlement and greed

2011-07-06T11:36:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I witnessed yet another step in what has become

a steady march to ruin good things here at the Jersey Shore.

Telephone poles were strategically placed in the sand and dirt

parking lot at the beach. Looks like the city is about to make

people pay for parking in the lot. Only a month ago the city installed

parking meters on the street where, for decades, surfers and fishermen

have parked for free. The lot and the spots aren't really near

anything but the ocean and jetty. No bathrooms, no porto johns, or

places to eat. Just a beach and a jetty.

Perhaps the lot and beach had become too popular, used by too many

people for the city to ignore. One of the few places on the Jersey Shore

where you could pull your car up, San Onofre style, check the surf,

hang out and enjoy. True it made the surf a bit more crowded, but

it provided a nice vibe. Guess the city didn't see it that way, they

probably see dollar signs. $10 bucks a car maybe 100 cars with

some turnover, a real cash cow. After all the city needs money.

The guy who has, for years, run his surf school from the lot

told me that the city now demands he pay them $500 for a permit.

Nice... pay to park, pay a mercantile permit, pay a beach badge fee

for eachstudent, where will it end.

Add to the mix the current controversy about beach access here in NJ.

The wealthy towns and beach front homeowners don't want us rif raf

coming to and using "their" beaches. They've established restrictive

parking regulations, hidden and well disguised access points, put up

illegal signs, and clearly don't want us there. Oh but wait...they do

want us to pay to protect their property by renourishing the beach in

front of their homes.

The state wants to abrogate it's responsibility to establish regulations

thatwould force towns to provide well defined, reasonable access.

Our governor, Chris Christie, wants to let local towns establish access

rules. Let the fox guard the hen house. Hey, he's got a state owned,

secure beach house on Long Beach Island ( that we pay for)and his

brother owns ocean front property in a town that hired private security

to keep people away. He can get to the beach, he and his family can

get to the ocean to fish or surf.

Greed and entitlement seem the enemies of us all. Be it on Wall Street,

in the corporate world, amongst insurance companies, or on the

shoreline. Seems to put a different spin on the "golden rule", something

like "do unto others in a manner as to get yours and to hell with

the rest of them".

Get to know the people in your life

2011-06-20T01:02:00.000-07:00

Who surfs at your "local" line-up? Do you know

many of them? I mean do you actually know them,

more than knowing how they surf, what board they

ride or what car drive?

Yesterday, being Father's Day, some people seemed

compelled to talk, write, and think about what they know or

knew about their fathers. I found it interesting to read what

people had to say on facebook about their dad's and the

influence their father's had on their lives. Being a father

and a grandfather that's something I think about often.

Being a son whose dad died when I was 18 added a particular

slant on the whole thing for me. I don't feel that I really got

to know my dad very well and I don't think he really got to

know me either. A shame and loss for us both. Oft times I

wonder what would he think about how I turned out. I would

like to have had a chance to have gotten to know him better too.

Sure I've got memories, an image here, a flash there, a photo,

a reflection on an event or conversation. We both missed out.

Missing out on getting to know people in our lives is a shame.

We've had a few waves lately and, as is becoming more usual,

my local spot was packed. Since the weather

was warm and the waves mellow it seemed that folks

were more into talking and hanging out. More into

getting to know each other. I got a chance to

attach more than names to many of the faces that have

been showing up lately. I met peoples wives

and kids. We talked and got to know each other a bit more.

Odd how when we returned to the line-up the vibe seemed

slightly different, a bit more pleasant. Fewer people surfed

in silence, fewer dropped in on each other.

Get to know the people in your life, the people at your line-up.

Who knows what impact it could have. Might get you a few

more waves, might give you the pleasure of watching someone

else get a wave or have some fun on a wave you've let them have.

Not much downside to getting to know the people you surf the

waves of your life with.

Playing golf with Tiger, shooting hoops with Michael Jordan

2011-06-08T12:55:00.001-07:00

The world of sports is filled with superstars. Every sport

has those special gifted and super talented athletes whose skills

and abilities are unrivaled. We watch them on t.v., admire them

from afar, and maybe even get an opportunity to pay for tickets

to see them play in person. That's the way it is. About all we

mortals can do is fantasize about trying trying to hit a ball out

of Yankee Stadium, pairing up for a round of golf with Tiger

Woods, or shooting a few hoops with LeBron. Surfing, on the

other hand, is very very different.

Last night I got a chance to hear Shaun Tomson talk about his

new book, the updated paperback version of The Surfer's Code.

Someone asked him if anyone ever drops in on him. Shaun smiled,

laughed a bit and replied "sure, at Rincon where I live, I get dropped

in on and yelled at all the time." Shaun surfs Rincon just like

everyone else in Santa Barbara without expecting special treatment.

Someone forwarded me a video of Kelly Slater, arguably the best surfer

ever, tearing it up at Malibu, one of the most crowded waves

on the planet. Two things were obvious in the video; Kelly was

ripping and is an amazing surfer, and even the world champ

gets dropped in on and yells people off the wave.

No where else in sports do we get a chance to share the playing field

with our superstars, the heros. Makes no difference if you are a "lifer"

or a grom. We all get to surf the same breaks, the same waves and

on the same days. We share, stare, watch, hoot, and even talk to each

other in the lineup. Guess surfing gives us a real glimpse into the human

condition. We are all very much the same, all paddling for the same

waves, all trying to enjoy many of the same simple pleasures in life.

Rich or poor, black or white in the water we all want the same things,

all have a chance to surf together. Not a bad model for life.

The rules

2011-05-31T11:48:00.000-07:00

Summer is upon us. The water is quickly warming up.

The beaches are "officially" open and, as a friend says,

the eggs have hatched and all newbies are scurrying about

everywhere. This is especially true in the lineup.

Yesterday I got to watch the same scene play out over

and over again. Inexperienced wanna be surfers haphazardly

paddling to the peak without a clue, endangering themselves

and others. When someone nicely tries to direct them

away from the main peak, down the beach, where beginners

belong, a nasty exchange takes place. Why is it that these

folks without a clue get angry when someone tries to teach

them the rules? What happened to the idea that if you don't

really know the rules perhaps you should timidly sit on the

sidelines for a bit and learn them before you head into the

game?

Knowing the rules doesn't only pertain to surfing. We'd

all be much safer and happier if we took the time to observe

how things work before haphazardly or impulsively charging

ahead without knowing the obstacles. We all can benefit from

learning a bit, taking the advice of "experts", and listening

to wisdom gained over the years. Don't be a kook in the surf

or in life. Take the time to learn the rules. You'll be happier,

safer, and healthier for sure.

Waves per Lifetime

2011-05-08T07:44:00.000-07:00

It's rare that you get to surf fun A frames, with

oil slick glassy conditions, in the rain, alone. I had

that opportunity just the other day. On those rare

occasions when I surf alone I find it quite meditative.

As anyone who meditates on a regular basis knows

sometimes you become aware of interesting thoughts.

My thoughts on that day seemed focused on the concept

of "Waves per Lifetime" (WPL). Just how many waves

does one ride during their lifetime. Each wave is but a

brief few seconds. Each session is made up of a finite

number of waves. Each year consists of a finite number

of sessions and your surfing life probably has a finite number

of years.

I actually have no real interest trying to calculate the

number of waves I've ridden in the 48 or so years I've been

surfing. I know it's been quite a few. Some have been

really special and stand out in my mind while others seem

to be lost somewhere in my brain. Much of our lives go

by in the same way I guess, some moments very special

while others rather ordinary and seemingly easy to forget.

Our challenge both in and out of the water, is to value all

our moments, all our sessions. We can't forget just how

blessed we all are simply to have them. Enjoy...

Yea but the surf was good

2011-05-03T12:56:00.000-07:00

Saturday we had some pretty fun leftover surf here in NJ.

Unfortunately there were many many more people surfing

than there were taking part in the semi-annual beach clean up.

Why was that?? Not quite sure I fully understand why so many

surfers don't take the time to take part in, or regularly on there

own pick up trash from the beach.

It's amazing how much surf related trash we regularly find when

we do beach clean-ups. On Saturday alone I found 1/2 a surfboard

that someone had broken the day before; a leash that had snapped;

wax; towels that someone had left covered in sand; empty plastic

bottles. Now maybe all that stuff wasn't from surfers but alot

was for sure.

Why aren't we, as surfers, leading the way in the effort to keep our

beaches clean? Why can the lineup have 25 to 30 people in it and

the beach clean up crew only have 5 or so? Kudos to the few surfers

who did help. As to the rest...apathy will destroy the ocean, beaches,

waves we all love so dearly.

Sustainability

2011-04-09T18:49:00.000-07:00

A surfing friend of mine has been writing a blog about

her fitness adventures. She has been on a good program

of diet and training and is really happy about her results.

I made a comment to her asking if she thought her new regime

was sustainable? All too often I see people who get excited about

a diet, a workout routine, a life change they've made, only to

be unable to keep at it, unable to sustain the change.

Sustainability is a word and issue I've been thinking quite a bit

about lately. So much of what we do as individuals and as citizens

of the planet Earth is not sustainable. I'm sure you've heard the

dire forecasts regarding the fish in the ocean. If we don't change

our present practices there will be no fish to eat by 2050. Our

current fishing practices are not sustainable. Our current addiction

to oil...not sustainable. Our continued use of plastic and the adverse

impact it has on our planet...not sustainable.

Looking at sustainability from a more individual perspective might

force you to ask some interesting questions about your own lifestyle

and habits. What are you doing that's simply not sustainable, that you

just can't keep doing with having to face serious consequences some day?

Try to live as sustainable a life as possible. Guess that means eat right,

exercise, rest and learn to relax, have fun, find balance, and try to

develop good "attitudes of mind" as my friend Doc Paskowitz would

say. Make your life as sustainable as possible. You'll live longer, love

longer, and of course surf all the waves of life longer.

Leif Engstrom's 540

2011-01-03T19:31:00.000-08:00

If you haven't seen it you should check out

the "Punt of the Month" on Surfline. It's

a video of Leif Engstrom doing an amazing

snowboardlike 540 on a wave in Puerto Rico.

It's not just an amazing feat, to me it symbolizes

a number of interesting observations and lessons for

the new year.

Leif didn't just paddle out and do his 540. I've seen

him try and try to pull it off many times. He is tenacious.

His persistence is really something to behold. A

great lesson for us all. Keep at it, keep trying to accomplish

the things that are important to you. Sure you'll fall short,

fail, or miss it many times before you make. That's all

part of life. If you don't try how can you succeed? What's

holding you back?

Another thing that wave reminded me was just how much

things change and how critical it is to try to adapt to

change. A 540 is a long way from a nose ride. It represents

a totally different way of thinking about, and riding a wave.

One is not better than the other, they're merely different.

They represent two ways of approaching something. Just

because things change doesn't mean we must all follow along

blindly or alter the way we think or view the world. Change

happens, it's inevitable. How we adapt and cope with change

is the challenge.

Watching Leif launch that air and spin around above the wave

made me think about trying to imagine yourself doing

something new, or something you've feared. I initially

commented to a friend that I couldn't even imagine myself

doing a 540. The more I thought about

it the less I like the idea that I couldn't imagine it. I probably

will never do one but I'm working on imagining it, seeing and

feeling myself do it. Who knows where that mind game will

lead. I'll bet it pushes me to try something I've not done before.

Make a New Year's resolution. Imagine yourself doing something

new, something you'd like to accomplish. Be persistent in working

to achieve that goal. You just might pull it off and at least you'll

have fun in the trying.

When is it too cold?

2010-12-15T08:44:00.000-08:00

The surf here in NJ was as good as it gets this past Monday.

Waves were overhead, the wind was offshore, and despite the

relative cold (air in the mid 30's) those of us who surfed won't

be soon forgetting the day. How can you forget big, spitting

barrels with relatively empty line-ups?

Unfortunately an "arctic blast" has taken over much of the

eastern half of the country. Here in NJ by Tuesday we had

temperatures in the 20's with wind chills in the single digits.

Tuesday's surf wasn't bad at all, stomach high with offshore

winds. A few hard core souls were out braving the frigid wind chills.

The ocean temperature isn't horrible (upper 40's) but single

digit wind chills? Too cold for me. Maybe it's that I just returned

from almost 3 weeks in Puerto Rico and am going back in a month

or so. Maybe it's my advancing age? Maybe it's wisdom? Who

really knows. All I know is that it's too cold for me.

I have gotten to the place in my life where I know what I will

and will not do, what is acceptable and not acceptable.

I've become much more mindful and that's not a bad thing. Are you

doing what you want? Can you determine when it's too cold or when

something doesn't fit into your life's plan? Knowing is a great thing

in that it can guide your actions and help you get what you want in your life.

Same Ocean Different Place

2010-12-08T11:45:00.000-08:00

Just a few days ago I woke up, put on my board shorts,

t-shirt, and flip flops and casually set out to check the

waves. Along the way I met up with a few friends who

were engaged in exactly the same activity. We moved slowly,

drinking our coffee and sharing conversation. The air warmed

as the sun rose brightening up the lush tropical morning.

This week I wake up in a somewhat different state. The

comforter that has kept me warm all night seems like

a weight to be removed. I labor to put on the layers of capliene,

fleece, and down. The coffee needs to be hotter and my motivation

to go outside seems low. It's below 30 degrees and the wind

is blowing. Checking the waves isn't a leisurely experience. My

dog runs along the beach looking for other dogs to play with. They

are few and far between this time of year.

Hard to believe it's the same ocean, the same surf check.

Accomplishing your dreams

2010-11-16T12:11:00.000-08:00

A few people I know are always amazed that a few

of my best friends and I rarely miss a swell. How do you manage

that they often ask? How is it that while we are at work

you are surfing or traveling? Arranging your life so you can

surf regularly is no different than working at a job you love or

living the life you'd hoped for.

Maria Brophy, the wife of renown surf artist Drew Brophy, writes

a great blog aimed at helping artists. Sometimes Maria's advice

is more about life than art. That was certainly true of today's entry

entitled "Breaking Through to the Other Side". In her post Maria

chronicles her breaking through from a job "slaving in the insurance

industry earning six figures pushing an intangible product" to "living

my dream life doing what I love". You can read her blog at

www.mariabrophy.com.

What do you want for your life? What waves do you want to surf?

Are you stuck where you are now feeling disheartened, dissatisfied,

distressed or even depressed? How can you get "Unstuck" (Dr.

James Gordon's great guide to overcoming depression)? Maria, Dr.

Gordon, and all who have arranged to organize their lives so they

can catch every swell or travel understand that all that is necessary

is to identify where you want be, take the smallest first steps in that

direction, pursue that goal with patience and passion, and don't let

fear get in your way.

Create a life where you are surfing the waves you'd like not one

where you settle for less.

10 time World Champion

2010-11-06T19:55:00.000-07:00

For the past month all that has been posted on this blog

has been a title 'Kelly Slater". Today in Puerto Rico

Kelly accomplished a feat unrivaled in all of sport. He

won a 10th World Title. No athlete in any other

sport has accomplished anything even close. Who has

dominated their sport for 2 decades? Who in any sport

can claim 10 World Titles and 45 first place tour victories?

The man from Florida has won victories in small waves and

in giant waves. He's won at beach breaks, reef breaks and point

breaks. This year he beat professionals who weren't even born

when he won his first title. His accomplishments are astounding.

His ability to, not only, win but to adapt to changing styles and

judging criteria is nothing short of staggering and inspiring. Adapting

to the changes in our world and in our lives is a trait we all need to

master.

As awe inspiring and magnificent as his accomplishment is it is

also ironic that, as I write, not a single main stream sports or news

outlet has even made mention of Slater or his accomplishment.

Odd isn't it?

There are many many lessons today's victory has for those who

look for them. Commitment, drive, the ability to adapt, and the passion

to do something you love can help us all excel as we surf the waves of

life. Congrats to one of the greatest athletes ever in all of sport.

Kelly Slater

2010-10-04T02:54:00.000-07:00

Just like that it's over

2010-09-08T12:12:00.000-07:00

My son Noah has been lifeguarding since he was in high school.

He's now 30 and has a 2 1/2 year old son of his own. On Labor Day

night he wrote a brief note on his facebook page, it read "just like

that it's over". Noah was referring to summer I think but I'm not

sure. Labor Day marked the end of the season and maybe,

after many years, the end of his lifeguarding. Who knows if he'll

be back next year, I kind of doubt it. His post really struck a chord

in me and got me thinking.

We'd just had 3 days of great surf courtesy of Hurricane Earl, days

of building expectation, and by Monday night "just like that it was over".

Hours of all manner of waves, and even a few barrels gone in what

seemed like an instant. The thing about riding a wave or getting tubed

is "just like that it's over". A wave really only lasts but a few seconds

but can stay with you a lifetime.

As I age I have come to realize that "just like that it's over" refers to

almost all aspects of life and even our own lives here during our

"human experience". Life, like surfing a hurricane, doesn't last

forever and can offer many varied opportunities and experiences.

Just remember it goes by quickly so make the most of it because

"just like that it's over".

Danielle dissappoints

2010-08-31T05:53:00.000-07:00

For all last week folks were buzzing with anticipation.

All the models were predicting that Hurricane Danielle

was going to produce overhead surf for the weekend and

that the weather was supposed to be sunny and warm with

offshore breezes. It looked, for all intensive purposes, like a

perfect setup.

Saturday morning as the sun rose parking lots were filled

with surfers checking their local breaks. Cars piled high

with surfboards were cruising in every which direction. The

local early morning news reporters and weathermen and women

were warning beach goers about deadly rip tides and high surf.

The surf forecasting web sites had charts with waves in the

overhead range. The feelings of anticipation filled the air.

Apparently no one told the ocean about all the buzz. First light

revealed barely a waist high wave. Surfers on cell phones, surfers

checking their i phones and and blackberries were frantically

calling and checking with friends. Where were the waves? Someone

said it's bigger down south "just got a call from the inlet and it's

chest high". Another group commented that NY might be bigger

while yet another decided to head for the barrier islands. Surprise,

frustration and something akin to shock filled the air replacing the

anticipation of first light. Crowds were scattering.

As the day wore on the disappointment deepened. A few places

had a chest high long period ground swell that closed out or dumped

without much chance of a wall to work. Other spots around groins

and jetties had small waist high waves with workable sections. The

beaches filled up as the sun shone and temperatures rose. Most beaches

didn't have the predicted rip tides. News reporters looked a bit silly

as the live shots revealed small surf and lots of people enjoying the

ocean. Sure there were a few spots with rips but no mass calamity.

How often do you spend lots of energy worrying or anticipating

something in your future? How often does it meet the expectation?

Sure it's fun to speculate and make some plans but... Sometimes it's

good just to look out the window, see what's going on and live the

day as it unfolds.

The speculation and anticipation about our next storm Hurricane Earl

is beginning. Trips to Rhode Island, Block Island, and points north

are being considered. Who knows? Guess I'll wait and see what comes,

keeping my anticipation somewhat in check, not counting my chickens.

Not a bad way to live.

What we take for granted

2010-08-10T05:37:00.000-07:00

Best Day Foundation, Life Rolls On, Surfer's Healing, Parents

of Children with Autism, all are wonderful organizations that

provide kids and families with something we take for granted...

a day at the beach, a chance to ride a few waves, and the joys

associated with everything about surfing.

All too often we take things for granted and don't focus on just

how lucky and blessed we are. How often do you find yourself

stressing over something that, in the big picture, is stupid and

quite unimportant. All you need to do is volunteer to help out

at any organization that gives kids and families less fortunate

a chance to experience what we all love.

Do yourself a favor. Give of yourself, give something back for

the blessings that have been bestowed on you. You are not here

on earth to simply ride as many waves as you can. You have been

given a gift, the ability to be healthy and to enjoy all that the ocean

has to offer. Use your gift wisely. Share what you love you'll be

amazed how good it can make you feel. You'll find that it helps

put things in perspective, helps you focus on what you have not

what you don't have.

40 Something Surf Girl update

2010-07-20T08:22:00.000-07:00

It's been a while since I wrote about the 40 something surf

girls. They are still at it and still as stoked as ever! The warm

water and little waves of summer seem to heighten their

enthusiasm and appreciation. It's fun to see just how much

they have improved in the past year or so. It's curious to see

just how dialed in they have become to the little things like

tides, winds, swell direction, the joys of a dawn patrol or

an evening glass off.

Being dialed in to the little beautiful and subtle things in life

make for a greater sense of peace and calm. The surfing life

allows the opportunity to take it all in. See the ocean and beach

from a different perspective. The surf girls are gaining that

perspective. They seem to be making the transition from

stoked surf groms to surfers. Their focus has become larger.

It's no longer just about balancing on the board or trying to

catch a wave. It's now become more abuot taking it all in.

Take time in your life to take it all in. Notice the wind, the

clouds, the tides. Appreciate the joys of life and relish in the

great sessions as they happen. A friend wrote on his facebook

page today, "life is short, enjoy it because when you are dead

you're dead for a long time"!

No telling what you'll find at the beach

2010-07-08T19:07:00.000-07:00

There's no telling what you'll find at the beach if you

just look around. The beach can be filled with treasures

and it can seem filled with trash. As we edge further and

further into summer seems there are more and more people

on the beach. Some of them are looking, some seeking, others

making demands. The level of enjoyment and discovery seems

to me directly related to they way you look and what you are

looking to find.

My dog Happy and I spend lots of time at the beach almost

every day. Lately he's been finding new dogs to engage with,

new smells to smell, new toys to steal or should I say borrow

play with and bury. I'm finding new people each with a somewhat

outlook, a different expectation. "Get your dog away from my

dog's ball" one owner said to my friend Tim as his puppy jumped

into the ocean after the ball he'd thrown for his dog to fetch. " Your

dog is barking" another owner told Roy. Yet another owner finds

tons of pictures to take of all the dogs and owners as she sits and

watches.

There are many more beachcombers these days. All looking for

something. There are walkers seeking peace, people sitting

on the jetties just taking in the scene, others take great joy in showing

kids the treasures they can find like sand crabs, shells, rocks, feathers,

the banner plane flying overhead, the playful dolphins passing by.

It's just like life. What are you looking to find the garbage on the

beach or the treasures. No telling what you'll find. Guess it depends

on what you are looking for.

Lessons from the Ocean

2010-06-16T15:44:00.000-07:00

I saw a great bumper sticker the other day. It read

"Everything I needed to learn I learned from the Ocean".

I love that it got me thinking and pushed me to try to

better understand what lessons I'd learned and if they

were actually sufficient. Here are just a few that I've come

with. I'd love to hear your thoughts on what you've learned.

1) Be curious, look around, and take it all in. The ocean holds

so much if we just look. It can tell you the wind direction, the

swell direction, the tide. It can show you where it is safe to be

and where danger lurks. You can see fish, birds, and amazing

colors and hews.

2) Things change constantly. The ocean is never the same and

it can change in an instant. I'm sure you can attest to that. How

often have you missed a great surf session because the wind switched

or the tide changed. How many time have you seen tranquility turn

into stormy chaos?

3) We are pretty insignificant in the big picture. The vastness of

the ocean can humble even the biggest ego-maniacal narcissist. Oft

times even the problems we feel are great aren't really very large

in the big picture.

4) You can't control the ocean all you can control is you in the ocean

if you learn how and try hard. You have to learn to go with the flow,

let the current take you and not waste energy fighting against the

things you can't win against. Learning to relax and go with it is a key

life lesson.

5) You have to respect the ocean you can't dump on it or in it without

some adverse consequences. The Gulf oil catastrophe is teaching that

to us as I write as are the 5 gyres. What we do is having an impact now.

6) The ocean can be a source of the greatest pleasure and the can also

be a source of pain and sorrow.

I'm sure that I've only scratched the surface, no pun intended. What

lessons has our mother ocean taught you?

Beyond the tipping point

2010-06-01T13:43:00.000-07:00

Phillipe Cousteau did a dive into the Gulf of Mexico last week.

Perhaps you have seen it, if not it's on You Tube. So sad to watch

him don a hazmat suit to dive into the oily disaster. So sad to

see what he saw and hear his words. I heard him interviewed

since his dive and he was asked if it was already too late for

our beloved mother ocean. HIs answer was troubling. A man

can survive without an arm, without a leg, with his eye gouged out

but the man will never be the same Cousteau replied. When will

people realize that the ocean will never be the same, never be

healthy he asked?

I too am surprised as to just how many people are not connecting

the dots on the devastation we humans have wrought on the

ocean. The big fish are virtually gone, yet we continue to seek

them out. The list of fish on the unsustainable list grows, yet go

into almost any eatery and look at the seafood portion of the menu.

Gyres filled with plastics ( an oil based product) are in all the worlds

oceans. The stomachs of fish and birds found in even the most remote

places on earth are filled with plastic. Walk any beach on any continent

and you'll see it littered with plastic. Go to virtually every beach snack

bar and ask to buy some kind of drink what you'll get in all likelihood

is a plastic bottle.

The ocean and our unwillingness to look at our behavior is a metaphor

for how many people live their lives. Sure you can survive eating

the wrong food, not exercising, being a workaholic, using your hard

earned dollars to consume for the sake of consuming. You, like the

ocean or the man with one arm, one leg, and one eye can survive. Do

you really want to? Have you, have we gone beyond the tipping point?

One stroke at a time

2010-05-10T18:28:00.000-07:00

Roz Savage and Margo Pelligrino are inspiring women.

Both have taken on extraordinary challenges to help bring

attention to the state of the oceans. Both are, I hope, forcing

people to think about what each and every one of us are

doing to play our parts.

Roz Savage quit a career as a business consultant after

realizing that the obituary that would be written about

her wasn't true to who she felt she was. She has now

rowed across the Atlantic Ocean and is presently rowing

across the Pacific Ocean. That's right, rowing across

the Oceans alone. You might want to check out Roz's

talk on www.TED.com.

Margo Pellegrino is the mother of 2 young Children. She decided

that she had to teach her kids what is important by example.

She couldn't just talk about the "right things" to do. Margo

has paddled her outrigger canoe from Miami to Maine and from

Florida to New Orleans to bring attention to the state of the

Oceans. This year Margo is going to paddle from Seattle to

San Diego.

Both these heroic women are making a difference one stroke

at a time. Both setting amazing examples and calling us to

task. How can you change your life? How can you change

your habits or your way of thinking? As Roz said so eloquently

"one stroke at a time", that's how you row across an ocean.

That's how you make the changes in your life you'd like to make.

Surfing makes it better

2010-05-05T18:33:00.000-07:00

To take a line from James Brown "I feel good"!

I've been able to surf for the past few mornings.

The waves weren't at all epic, in fact, they were actually

pretty small. To be perfectly honest, I needed my 9'6"

and/or my SUP to even catch waves. On set they were

barely thigh high, but I had a blast and the fun little morning

sessions with my good friends have served to set up my days.

No real surprise that my mood is better and the day goes

by faster when I start it off with a session in the water. I'm

not exactly sure what causes it, what makes the difference.

Perhaps it's those endorphins that make me feel good.

Maybe it's the opportunity to burn off some of those

stress chemicals that makes me feel so content, so happy

and at ease after a surf. Maybe it's being in the ocean and seeing

the beauty all around me. I'm not exactly sure. All I know

is that my life has been kind of stressful for the past few weeks

and I feel better when I surf.

What do you do each day that helps make you feel better,

helps you deal with stress? Surfing sure makes me feel better.

First hints of summer

2010-05-01T20:03:00.000-07:00

It happened today! Every spring it is guaranteed

to happen at some point. Today was a warm, sunny,

summer like day. The kind of day when things just seem

right. Finally, we got a taste of things to come. A taste of summer.

There were people on the beaches in bathing suits sitting

in beach chairs and under beach umbrellas. Despite the

barely knee high surf there were more surfers in the water

than conditions warranted. Today was the day the grooms

went in the ocean wearing poorly fitting 3 mil wet suits without

boots or gloves. Sure they didn't really last too long but they

were surfing. They had fun.

The streets were filled with runners, bike riders and walkers.

First Night in Asbury Park was crowded and people were happy.

A taste of summer. A taste of things to come.

Amazing how a little preview of something good like summer,

can lift the spirits of so many. Knowing that things will get better helps

us all. It's good to know for sure, good to feel it, to actually

experience it.

Know, no matter how cloudy, dark, drab, or down life may seem,

things can get better. Summer does come. It sure is nice

to actually get an early taste to remind us, to keep our spirits

up. Now if we could just get some surf to go along with the

summer weather things might even seem perfect.

Decisions, decisions, and peace

2010-04-24T19:37:00.000-07:00

Sometimes having too many options, too many

decisions to make can be a bad thing. How many

surfers have large quivers with a healthy variety

of surfboards, shapes, and sizes? I know I'm guilty for sure.

I've got almost every kind of board imaginable from a 5'8"

retro fish to a 10'10" SUP with just about everything in between.

I own longboards, shortboards, guns, eggs, single fins, twin fins,

tri fins, and a quad. Got all my bases covered I guess, but

sometimes all it does is confuse me. Sometimes I wish

I didn't have so many choices, so many decisions to make.

It sure was easier when all I had to do was grab my only board

go surf.

Life can seem a lot like picking out a board to ride. To

many choices can lead to too much stress. Narrowing

down the array of options can be a relief, can provide peace.

Recently I've had to make some decisions, I found myself

thinking about and exploring all the options

available. Like many, I asked others for their advice. I heard

lots of ideas, lots of opinions, lots of choices. It

became almost overwhelming. After a bit of time, some meditation

and thought I reached my own decision. I decided what I would

do, which board I'd ride as it were. No more second guessing.

Odd how peaceful it can become when you make a decision, pick

the board you'll ride.

Make your own decision. One that is right for

you. You can second guess forever, wonder if you've chosen the

right path, the right board, or you can mindfully

and thoughtfully pick one, have confidence in it and enjoy

your session. It's your choice.

Filters

2010-04-13T19:03:00.001-07:00

In surfing and in life it's really how you look at

things that matters. What filters do you use that

influence what you see or what you hear. How do

your filters impact the quality of your life, your

relationships, and how you communicate with others?

I listened as a surfer I know talked about a recent

session. "It was amazing...so good and not at all crowded"

Another surfer who was surfing at the same spot and

at the same time told me "it wasn't really that great, the

wind was blowing hard and it held you up making it tough

to make the drop". Yet another told me "the ramps on the

inside lefts were great for launching airs. I had a blast!"

Three surfers all seeing things from their own unique

perspective, judging the same wave in very different ways.

I hear similar things in my office. Just tonight I worked

with a couple whose big issue revolved around one partner

hearing something through their own filter. What they heard

and ultimately reacted to was not at all what their partner

actually meant or said. They never even thought that

they could have been filtering the message through their

own perspective and not actually hearing what was said

or what was meant.

Do your filters get you in trouble? Confuse the messages?

Dictate your reactions? Try to understand and listen to what

is actually being said not what you think was said or what you

think it meant. Slow down before you react. The same surf,

the same time, 3 different perspectives. Probably happens in your

life alot.

Lost in Whitewater

2010-04-03T09:16:00.000-07:00

Wow, it's been a while since my last update.

Sort of like someone wiping out on a big wave, a Tres

Palms, Mavericks, or Waimea Bay type big wave, and

disappearing in the white water before suddenly popping up.

I've popped back up!

Not quite sure what held me under for so long. I barely even

remember wiping out at all. Guess we all get lost at times.

It's easy to lose our focus, or get too involved in some things without

remembering how important other things are. Maybe that's

it, I lost some focus. I got busy in the office, found myself

focusing on the trivialities on each day, dealing

with what might seem the more important events in one's life, or

maybe it was the joy of surfing in the warm waters of Puerto Rico.

Be that as it may, I got lost or should I say sidetracked. We all do.

The important thing it to pop back up! As long as we pop back up

out of the whitewater after a wipeout we're fine. Even long hold

downs have lessons to teach.

Flat, cold, and snowy

2010-02-16T10:57:00.000-08:00

As I look out my office window I can see the

snow falling... yet again. At least it's putting a fresh

coating on the dirty piles of snow that have yet to

melt from the last 2 major storms. Looking at the

surf forecast for the next week or so here in NJ doesn't

exactly fill me with excitement. It's going to be flat...again.

It's been flat, cold, and snowy for way too long this winter.

Not much joy amongst the local crew.

Seems to me that people are coping with all this in a few

observable ways. Some are putting their heads down and

trudging along, doing what they have to do. They are kind

of stoic, not really complaining. They are just putting one

foot in front of the other and moving along. Than there are

those who accept their fate making the best of what they can't

change. They're heading to the nearby mountains where the

snow and conditions are amazing. Than there are those who seem

to be able to do little but complain. It's almost as if they have

given up, given in to depression. I'm not at all a fan of flat, cold,

or snow but I'm lucky enough to be able to escape.

With winter, like all the other stressors in life, there are really

only 3 things we ever can do to cope - 1) remove the stressor;

2) remove ourselves; or, 3) learn to cope as best we can as to not

let the stressor get to us. Which way are you choosing to cope

with the flat, cold, and snow? Is it working for you?

"Legions of the unjazzed"

2010-01-27T02:32:00.000-08:00

Phil Edwards was, during the late 1960's, considered the

best surfer in the world. He rode waves with a style and

grace that influenced generations to follow. He also authored

the rare and much coveted book "You Should Have Been Here

An Hour Ago". If you do a little research you might even find

the 1967 Sports Illustrated with Edwards on the cover.

Occasionally we all come across a sentence, a phrase, or even

a song lyric that seems to imprint in our brains and sticks

with us popping up at seemingly unlikely times. For me "The

legions of the unjazzed" is one of those sentences. Edwards

used it to describe " the day-to-day people, the hackers..." who

are taking over... The uncounted millions...who go through life

without any sort of real, vibrant kick". The people I encounter

in my office who draw a blank stare when I ask them what

they are passionate about, what really excites them. No surprise

that these legions often suffer from depression, have lost touch

with the joy of life.

I'm writing this at my house here in Rincon Puerto Rico. I've been

coming to Rincon for decades. It is a place that is, not only

beautiful and has good surf, but is populated by people that

seem to know what excites them, that know what they are passionate

about. Not too many depressed people here.

Find and embrace your passion. If you can't remember what excites

you, by all means, find it!

Out of touch with nature

2010-01-17T18:04:00.000-08:00

As surfers we are the lucky ones. We seem most at home

in nature, in the ocean. We are dialed in to the rhythms of

the natural world - wind, tide, swell, sand. reefs, low pressure systems,

the ocean, and the life that calls the ocean home. It's easy to

forget that others are actually out of touch with nature. Out

of touch with all that is around them.

These past few weeks the Atlantic, here in NJ, has been asleep.

No waves, no real swell to speak of, but to those who take the

time to look there is plenty going on in our natural world.

We've had more seals showing up on the beaches than in

recent memory. Amazing how some people are freaked

out by the idea. Seals on the beach...how could that be they ask?

The nor'easters of the fall and early winter have done some

interesting things to our dunes and sandbars. Yesterday I

walked the beach in Seaside Heights, you know the home of

that bizarre MTV show "Jersey Shore". I Actually walked past

the place they lived but not on the boardwalk. I was on the beach

with another surfer checking out the carved out beach, the new

sandbar layout. We were watching as 8 inch waves peeled down

the newly formed sand points. We speculated about what will

happen when we get a swell, how those bars will perform.

Meanwhile behind us, up on the boardwalk people were taking

pictures of the closed t shirt shop and the painted door of the

MTV house. Not exactly nature, not exactly real but I guess

that's their world.

Research tells us that people who spend time in nature are

healthier and less stressed. No real surprise to surfers. Take

the time to connect with the natural world around you. Walk

on the beach, take a hike in the woods, visit a nature preserve.

You'll feel better for it. You will find yourself more connected

yet more at peace. The seals on the beach won't surprise you so

much and you'll be less interested in the fantasy of "reality tv".

Great days

2010-01-05T15:27:00.000-08:00

I'm sure you all have had a really great day in the surf.

A day when everything seemed to come together, where

it's as good as it gets. Doesn't have to be a giant day or

even a perfect day, it's just for you a really great day. It

makes no difference if you have just begun surfing, if

you are Kelly Slater, or some seasoned "old guy", great

days happen to us all.

I had a great day yesterday. Simon my grandson called

me grandpa for the first time! At 22 month he's developed

quite a vocabulary in both Spanish and English. Seems

that every day for the past months he's been letting us know

he's mastered new words, new phrases. What a joy to hear

him say something he's never said before, to watch as he

realizes that others understand him, that he's actually

communicating. The "grandpa thing" was different I think.

I'll bet he's been able to say it for a while now but he's been

playing with me and holding out. He just wasn't ready.

Prior to yesterday when-ever someone asked him who I

was, what my name was he just smiled a coy smile, a knowing

smile. But for whatever reason yesterday was the day.

He decided to say it. My day was made, my joy incredible.

Such a little thing meant so much.

What little things mean a lot to you? Do you seek them

out, nurture them? Whether it's having a great session,

making a personal change, connecting with a friend, or simply

living with the aloha spirit, great days can come from

little things. Make it a great day in and out of the surf.

Seal on the beach

2009-12-23T11:02:00.000-08:00

This morning there was a seal on the beach

sunning itself. Not a usual site here on the Jersey Shore

but one we see every year when it gets cold. Sure made

the dogs curious! I guess the seal is but one more

reminder that winter is most definitely upon us.

Walking through snow to get to the beach is another

sure sign of winter. No subtle hint there. If you are not

from the northeast I'd wager that you've never seen

snow on a beach. You just might want to put it on your to

do list. There is an odd beauty in seeing ocean, sand,

snow, and ice caking the jetty rocks.

A winter beach is a quite special place not usually as cold

as the thermometer would suggest. Don't get me wrong,

I hate winter, I hate cold, and I hate snow but it's my

reality for now. A friend of mine wrote on his facebook page

that he was cross-country skiing on the beach today. He too

is no real fan of winter but as he wrote "it's what we have now

so might as well enjoy it". What a great life philosophy! What

great advice. That seal sure seemed to be enjoying the solitude,

and the sun this morning, guess it too was making the most of the day.

Are you?

Thanks Buddha

2009-12-15T19:03:00.000-08:00

Yesterday was a sad day for my close knit band of

dog walking surfers. Buddha, one of the pack, lost

his battle with cancer and his time with us here came

to an end. He'll be missed.

I got a very touching email from one of Buddha's

owners, who happens to be one of the forty something

surf girls. "So much came into my life....thanks to

Buddha" she wrote. Oddly enough it thanks to Buddha

that she became a surfer. Being at the beach every day,

hanging out, and talking with surfers seemed to spark

her interest in surfing, put her in touch with the rhythms

of the ocean. I dare say if it weren't for Buddha's love of

the ocean and the connections forged with those who

shared that love, we'd have one less surf stoked surf girl.

There are those who say that when we need guidance or

help a teacher appears. I guess Buddha was a teacher of

sorts. One of the fortysomething surf girls is a surfer

led into the surf by a wonderful dog. Wonder who the next

teacher will be and what lessons are in store for us?

Motivation, Fear, and the Eddie

2009-12-11T16:58:00.000-08:00

What motivates us to do the things we do?

What pushes us beyond what would normally be

expected? I couldn't help but wonder about these

questions as I watched surfers take on the massive

waves during contest held in honor of

Eddie Aikau at Waimea Bay on the north shore of Oahu

the other day.

The "Eddie" is a special event. In order for contest

director George Downing to allow the contest to begin

the waves must be giant, 25 feet or higher. In the

25 years since its' inception the "Eddie" has only been

run a handful of times. It is a contest like no other.

Simply being selected as a participant or alternate is a

great honor. Surfers capable of, and motivated to paddle in

and ride waves of such enormous size are a breed apart. These

surfers push themselves over the edge of mountains when

most other mortals would be paddling in the opposite direction to

avoid even the possibility of having to ride such waves. What

makes them do it?

Giant waves can and have killed people. Riding a wave into the

giant shorebreak at Waimea is life threatening. You'd never

have known if you were watching the feats of Ramon Navarro,

Greg Long, Kelly Slater or some of the others. They seemed almost

casual in their approach. Clyde Aikau at age 60 charged the biggest

set waves risking his life. Why you might ask? Where was their fear?

What happened to that switch in the brain that warns us, tries to

protect us and keep us safe? Were they afraid? If they were afraid

what permitted them to push the fear aside and go? I know that none

felt that they'd do anything other than make the drop, make the wave,

survive the day and celebrate their participation in the "Eddie",

celebrate their participation in one of life's special moments.

Maybe we all need to learn from those who surfed in this years

"Eddie". Perhaps we all need to push the fear aside and celebrate

participating with the knowledge that we too will make it through,

and that it will be a memorable event in our lives.

The Drifter (part 3)

2009-12-05T13:06:00.000-08:00

Have you ever watched how aggro some people

can become when the surf is good? Seems that they

are trying to get as many set waves

as they can oblivious to others in the line up. I was

witness to just that sort of surfer last week in Puerto

Rico when Maria's got really good. This one guy would paddle

for every set wave, yell others off, and after his ride

paddle back to the point and do the same thing. That aggro attitude

might serve one well in a competition or for others in business,

but I'm not so sure it's a great life strategy.

Rob Machado, one of the best competitive surfer's in the world

made an insightful comment in his recent movie "The Drifter".

He was in a rather remote village in Indo watching some children

play a game with rocks. They'd toss a rock up in the air and while

it was airborne attempt to pick up other rocks, kind of like the game

of jacks. One child would toss than pass the rock to another.

"I couldn't really figure out how you win" Machado commented.

"Maybe you just play and that's good enough".

I love the idea of having fun and playing. You might try it in the

lineup and in your life. You can still strive to do well, strive to achieve

or even win but as you do so remember "maybe you just play and that's

good enough".

More from the Drifter

2009-11-20T11:06:00.000-08:00

"High expectations tend to make poor travel partners".

This line from the Drifter really got me thinking.

Tomorrow I'm heading to my house in Puerto

Rico for a bit. I can't wait to get back to wearing

board shorts, flip flops, and a t shirt and feeling the warmth

of the tropical sun. As for the surf, I never expect too much

and am always happy for what I get. As long as I can get a few

waves I can be very content.

Over the years I've discovered that keeping expectations for

waves on any surf trip low helps make for a better experience.

I've regularly run across traveling surfers who were bummed

because the waves weren't perfect or as big as they'd hoped.

For them the trip was all about surfing not the total experience

of seeing a different country, a different culture, meeting people

and getting a chance to think about yourself and your life from a

different vantage point, a different perspective.

Expectations play a big role in our lives. Sometimes when the

gap between our expectations and our perception of the reality

is great we feel stressed, upset, out of sorts. Some day I'm going to

make a chart to visually illustrate that point. I see that distress

in my clients regularly. They have certain expectations of how

things "should be" and often what they get doesn't match their

expectations. Bet you can cite a few example in your own life.

Keeping expectations in line with reality doesn't make you a

negative person or take away your ability to hope and dream.

Sometimes if you've been able to keep your expectations in line

you just might get pleasantly surprised when things turn out

better than you'd hoped for.

The Drifter

2009-11-13T10:05:00.000-08:00

Last night I had the opportunity to see Rob Machado

and Taylor Steele's new movie "The Drifter". I'm not

giving anything away by telling you that it is a documentary,

of sorts, chronicling Rob's 6 month journey in Indonesia. It

was a journey intended, in part, to help Rob find himself. The

Drifter is one of the better "surf films" I've seen in a while. It is

visually beautiful, got me thinking on many levels, and of course

provided an opportunity to marvel at Rob's surfing skills and

style.

Many of us, I'm sure, have felt an urge to get away,

to embark on a journey and find ourselves, to figure out

what is important. Seems to me this is especially true during

those times of distress and emotional challenge, or when

we are overwhelmed and facing major life decisions or choices.

Ironically, one of the clients I saw not too long before going

to see the Drifter voiced their own feeling the need to get away.

"I'd like to just go off alone, with no phone, no responsibilities,

no expectations and get in touch with who I really am. I feel like

I've been lost, been playing a role, not really being me." they said.

It is often ironic how the lessons we learn from our own

drifting, our own journey of self discovery end up being so

simple, so basic. During the Q & A after the movie someone

asked Rob about some of the things he'd discovered. After

a brief pause he answered the question by talking about the

miracle of running water. You see he'd stayed in a village where

there was no well, no running water. Villagers had to walk 2-3 km.

just to fill their buckets. After his journey he'll not take that simple

thing, running water in the house, for granted ever again.

From time to time we all become drifters in an effort to

discover who we are and what is really important to us.

In this time of economic uncertainty, job loss, recession, and

change maybe we need some distance to help us gain a different

perspective, to look at the things we do have, like water, to help

us find contentment, to find some joy and happiness, to find our selves.

Sharing the stoke

2009-11-06T04:19:00.000-08:00

I don't think I'm the only surfer who enjoys hearing

from friends who are on surf trips. Odd how, despite

knowing exactly what the conditions are thanks to surf

reports, web cams, I still like getting a first hand report.

Hearing or reading a friends account of their days sessions

is kind of like taking a vicarious surf trip.

One of the 40 something surf girls is at my house in Puerto

Rico getting her first taste of the surfing reef breaks.

The surf, thus far, has been perfect for her - stomach high,

light crowds, good vibe. Sounds like she's having a blast!

Being able to view things through the eyes of others can be, not

only, a fun experience but also a great way to become more

compassionate and caring. Empathy, i.e. experiencing the world

"as if" you were another, through their eyes, is a key trait in

establishing and maintaining good relationships. The noted

psychologist Carl Rogers wrote extensively about empathy.

Being empathetic helps us avoid being critical and judgmental

and encourages compassion. Perhaps you can check the web site

www.Ted.com and enjoy the recently posted lectures on

compassion. Compassion helps bring about peacefulness and

touches our best human qualities.

I'm looking forward to todays call from the 40 something surf

girl in PR. I know where she'll be surfing, I know the conditions,

what I am excited for is to experience it through her eyes. I love

sharing the stoke.

Measuring waves Hawaiian Style

2009-10-30T10:39:00.000-07:00

A friend and colleague called twice yesterday

from the north shore of Oahu. This is his first trip

to that magical, legendary place. For a surfer going

to Hawaii, and especially the north shore, is akin to making

holy pilgrimage, kind of like going to Mecca or Jerusalem.

The first call was filled with excitement, anticipation.

"The surf at Alligators looks huge to me" he said.

"Seems at least double overhead! I'm meeting Leeland

(his host and a north shore local) at his house and I guess

we'll surf." I could hear the anxiety in his voice. It was

almost as if he was wondering if he had to surf.

The second call was a bit different. "I survived!" he proudly

proclaimed. " Don't think I've ever gone so fast or surfed

waves so big in my life, I prayed I'd make each of the waves

I rode but I made it! Leeland said it was only 8'-10', not really

that big" my friend confessed. "It was pretty big to me, guess

it's that Hawaiian thing about measuring waves". "It's all

what you get used to, all in how you look at it".

Odd how a surf pilgrim surfing the north shore can make the

same observation as a client trying to put their stresses and

problems into perspective. Just the other day a patient in

my office commented that they believed that if all the people

with problems stood in a circle and threw their problems up

into the air you'd find people reaching to catch their own issues.

Seeing the problems some others have can help you measure

your own in a different way. To a north shore local 8'-10' foot

surf isn't really that big. To someone facing a life threatening

disease getting stressed over a traffic jam doesn't seem so

big. How do you measure waves and the problems you face?

Getting in over your head

2009-10-19T18:37:00.000-07:00

Two nor'eaters here in NJ in 4 days. The beaches really

took a beating. The surf got pretty out of hand for a bit.

At one point during the storms I watched as a few people

tried to paddle out. They got pounded in a big, narly, dirty,

out of control ocean. Clearly they were in "way over their heads".

Those 2 surfers should have known better, should have

realized that no one else was even considering trying to surf.

Guess they just got carried away.

Interesting how many people are in all sorts of things "way

over their heads" these days. In the office every day I listen and try

to help people who have let things go too far, be it their

spending, their relationships, their drinking, or their

unhappiness. How many of us have let things go too far before

we've decided to address them, try to resolve them. Guess

it's just too easy sometimes to go with the flow and not confront

ourselves and our issues.

In surfing getting in "over your head" can be dangerous and

endanger others. Guess the same is true in life. Accept what

is, not what you'd want it to be. We all need to be honest with

ourselves and with the people in our lives even when it doesn't

feel so easy to do so. If the waves are too big don't go! Don't get

in "over your head" because sometimes it's too difficult to get out.

Some days are just better than others

2009-10-16T11:40:00.000-07:00

Every surfer knows that some days are just better

than others. Perhaps the wind is better, the swell bigger,

the vibe in the line-up friendlier, the ocean clearer, the sky

prettier, and it seems that everything just comes together

to make for the perfect session. Then there are those other

days the days when nothing seems right, nothing comes

together, the days you can't seem to catch a break.

Everyone experiences those off days when for whatever reason

your mood is down and nothing seems to go right. Seems

to me that many of the folks I work with have more

of those days than others. Learning how to float through a

bad day without it ruining your life is a skill we all need to acquire.

So you got to the beach just as the wind shifted. So you surfed

poorly messing up turns falling like a clumsy grom. So what? It's

not the end of the world. Bad days, bad moods, happen. They come

and they go. The trick is to learn how to be mindful of your mood,

not run from it, and not let it control you. Hey, face it you've had

good sessions on pretty lousy days when the wind and waves didn't

really come together.

What's your day like today?

Michael Peterson and .Mental Illness

2009-10-06T14:35:00.000-07:00

I had the pleasure of seeing Jolyon Hoff's new film

"Searching for Michael Peterson" this past week. If you

get the opportunity to see it you should definitely make it

point to go. It is a wonderful movie on many many levels

Wonderful mornings help make wonderful days

2009-09-28T17:58:00.000-07:00

What a wonderful session this morning. What a way to start the

day! I have written before about how I love Monday mornings

especially when the sky is clear, the is wind offshore, and there

is a decent swell. Today was one of those days. The September

sky was crystal clear. The air had a tiny nip in it and the water

was warmer than the air. The hollow waves were and in the chest

high range racing down the sand bar. A large pod of dolphins

swam by making the mood in the lineup peaceful, joyous, content.

Dolphins seem to do that.

This morning I decided to ride my 7'4" egg. That board amazes me.

I never would have bought it but every time I ride it I have a great

session. I got the board as a payment for a debt someone owed me.

My gain for sure. Interesting how things happen.

I surfed for about 4 hours before the wind went hard south. I felt

bad for the crew that had just paddled out. Funny how that sometimes

happens, just as you paddle out the wind switches. Life works that

way periodically. By 4 pm the ocean didn't even look like the same

ocean. Five hours of hard wind will do that. On the bright side, the

strong wind should make tomorrow morning fun.

Funny how things are.

From the known to the unknown

2009-09-22T17:04:00.000-07:00

Many surfers are very very comfortable surfing their

home breaks and the breaks they know well. Others are

very happy riding the same boards or shapes. There is

something about the familiarity of things that makes

many feel safe, secure, and confident. Is safety, security,

and confidence always so necessary or can these same things

sometimes hold us back, prevent us from having new experiences,

learning and advancing?

On Saturday I just happened to be in my local surf shop

and had the opportunity to help a friend of a friend buy a board.

I really didn't know the guy all that well but I have seen him in

the water and watched him surf. He's got 2 boards both with

about the same shapes one a bit longer than the other. When I

asked him what he was looking for in another board he replied

"something longer, something I can catch more waves on". As

he looked on the rack he gravitated to longer versions of what

he already has. I urged him to consider a great deal on a used long-

board. He balked at first. "I've never ridden a longboard" he

said. "I don't think so" was his initial reluctant reply. As we spoke

I could see that it was the unknown that was holding him back.

"Try it" I said. "Give it some time. If you really don't like it I'm

sure you can sell it for what you paid for it". After a bit he bought

the board and excitedly headed to the beach. I'm looking forward

to the next time I see him to find out how he likes the board. To

find out how he did with the unknown.

As a country we are currently in the midst of the same kind of

struggle, moving from the known to the unknown. If you watch

and listen you can see the styles of dealing with the uncertainty.

On one side we've got those who rigidly resist any and all change.

They want things to be the way they used to be, to get back to

what was. That's the comfort zone they feel safe in. On the other

side we have those who seem to charge headfirst into change

seemingly embracing the unknown, sometimes without adequate

thought. Seems to me that describes our national psyche these days.

Too few realizing that we can never have things the way they were,

we can't go back. Too few realizing that a mad dash into an unknown

isn't always the wisest thing to do. Too few willing to listen to the

other.

Where are you? Are you riding the old familiar break on the same

old shape? Are you charging blindly into the surf at a new spot without

looking for the channel, looking at the hazards? The unknown future,

filled with change is inevitable. How we deal with it is up to us.

Anticipation, Anxiety and Reality

2009-08-27T12:41:00.000-07:00

For many of us anticipating, expecting, and imagining are great causes

of anxiety. Waiting can drive you crazy! Nowhere was this more evident

than amongst surfers on the east coast last week as they watched and

waited for the arrival of the swell from Hurricane Bill. In this age

of information overload, internet surf forecasting web sites, instant

buoy readings, Dr. Steve Lyons and the Weather Channel's Tropical

Update (at 50 minutes after every hour), and the 24 hour tv news cycle,

who didn't know that Bill was coming? Who hadn't heard that waves

from the projected swell looked big? A 19 foot buoy reading with 18

second intervals is not something we usually see on the "right coast".

Even people who weren't surf obsessed were being warned about rip

currents, waves in the 20 foot range and dangerous conditions.

A look at Facebook on any day last week from Tuesday on saw links

to Bill's projected path, comments about people being unable to sleep

or work, people speculating about travel plans. What a buzz, what a

hype. Everyone was getting whipped up into a frenzy.

Bill brought some fun waves and lot's of over-reaction. Beaches and

roads were closed. Surfers not allowed in the water. At the Sandy

Hook National Recreation Area in NJ some were even arrested for

surfing. The interesting thing was that the giant waves that were being

anticipated never really materialized. Much of the anxiety, anticipation,

and hype were for naught. I'm not complaining, overhead waves are

great especially when the water is warm. Who could complain about

surfing good waves for 4 days in a row? But it surely didn't live up to

the hype, it wasn't what many expected.

So often in life we discover that too much anticipation, too much hype

results in little more than anxiety. Whether it is anticipating a job

interview, a birthday party, a test, or even a trip, the anxiety often is

much greater than, and interferes with our appreciation of the reality.

Too much anticipation can actually ruin things and not let us live in

or enjoy what we get. Sure it's good to prepare, to study, to do some

planning, but in this day and age of information

overload, of all sorts of advice from experts, it's easy to get too intense,

too involved, too anxious. Try to find the balance if you can. Too much

hype, too much anxiety and anticipation actually gets in the way of you

doing your best, gets in the way of having fun. Maybe that's the lesson

of Hurricane Bill?

Watching the fears wash away

2009-08-17T14:40:00.000-07:00

Interesting experience this past week. My son's nephew

is visiting from Dallas, Texas. The little fellow is 3 years

old and his doctors have been strongly considering some

form of autism as his diagnosis. It's been amazing to watch

him for the past 3 days as he experiences the ocean.

Each day he becomes less afraid. The tension that was in his

body on day one, as he held his father in a death grip, was obvious.

Little by little that grip loosened, that tension seemed to melt away.

First it was standing at the shoreline watching and feeling the little

waves. The occasional splash in the face, the push, the loss of

balance, even the falling down all became fun, pleasurable experiences.

The trip beyond the breakers with dad was initially a trip of terror,

especially if a larger wave forced them both to jump, or if his head

momentarily went under the water. Soon even that brought a smile.

By the third day the little guy was visibly loose and smiling as he stood

in knee deep water jumping as what was left of a wave rolled towards

him. He didn't quite have the timing down but he had the idea. If

the white water knocked him off his feet he relaxed, fell into the ocean

and awkwardly tried to stand up and right himself. It was clear now

how much he was loving every minute.

It is getting increasing hard to get him out of the ocean and ready

to go home. He really doesn't want to leave no matter how much

his teeth are chattering. He isn't struggling in a tense way all it now

takes is the promise from dad that he'll be back and his smile returns.

I guess he's forgotten the fears.

Watching the ocean wash fear away from an autistic child or

special needs kid is an amazing experience. Check out the web

sites for Surfers Healing or the Best Day Foundation or Google

surfing for autistic or special needs children. Volunteer for an event

or just go for a while and you'll learn that the ocean can wash your fears

away as well, make you less tense.

Balance, Gratitude, and Love

2009-08-04T14:43:00.000-07:00

What a wonderful few days, the kind of days that

you want to savor. I am amazingly grateful for

a few simple things. The summer weather has

been glorious. My morning rituals are a pleasure.

Wake up early, do a bit of yoga, put on my boardshorts

and t shirt, head downstairs for some coffee, and Happy

(my dog) and I walk to the beach. At the beach we meet

up with one of my friends, another surfer who loves

the ocean, and his puppy. Check out the surf, stroll as the

dogs romp, chase, explore and generally have their

exercise, and we make plans.

The surf this summer has been amazingly consistent. It

seems that we are surfing multiple sessions almost every day.

That's a real treat for New Jersey. When the surf is knee high

or under, like today, I grab my SUP and either go for a paddle

amongst the seemingly ever present morning pod of dolphins

and schools of bait fish or ride a few waves. I love the SUP

as a reminder of the importance of balance both on the ocean

and in my life.

What has been one of the more special parts of this new routine

has been the late morning trip to the beach with either or both

of my grandchildren. Simon and Lucy love the beach and the

ocean. My heart is so filled with joy and love as I watch them

in the water or wander along the shoreline. To them it is sheer

pleasure and newness. The sound of the ocean, the gentle lapping

of the waves, the ebb and flow of the water, the shells, the seagulls,

the people all take on a new perspective.

How could I start my day any better? Gratitude, balance, and love

all lessons learned at the beach and surfing the waves of my life.

I'm a lucky guy. What simple pleasures and routines do you have

in your life?

It's easy being positive when things are going well

2009-07-27T12:19:00.000-07:00

Wow, the surf just keeps on coming! What an amazing

east coast summer lots and lots of surf. People are

getting used to surfing almost every day. Spirits seem

high and not too many people are getting too upset if

for whatever reason, like work or family obligations,

they miss a session. Surfers are smiling and some

feeling muscles aching. The mood in the lineup seems

significantly lighter and more friendly.

A client of mine was telling me how happy they were

over these past weeks. The client is not a surfer or even

one who loves the beach and ocean. What the client did

say struck me "it's easy to be positive when positive things

are happening, when things are going well". They weren't

sure if they felt that because they'd been working

hard on reframing the way they looked at the world and the

way they spoke to themselves, or that nothing negative had

happened. Interesting way to look at it, kind of a chicken

and egg thing.

Wonder if the same applies to surfers. Is the lineup friendly

because we've had surf? Humm

It's not the obvious

2009-07-20T03:43:00.000-07:00

Back in the water! It's difficult to describe just

how wonderful it is to be back surfing. I realize that

seven weeks is really not much time in the big scheme

of things. My seven week hiatus has taught me a bunch

of interesting lessons about myself, about surfing, and

about life.

Sitting in the lineup talking to my friends is somehow

very different than sitting on the beach or in someone's

yard. The feeling of being amongst old friends laughing,

teasing, watching each other is special. Most people who

don't surf see a break with lots of people in the water.

That's the obvious but it's not the obvious that I missed,

not the just simple act of riding a wave. It was the whole

experience that I longed for. The feel of the water, the

ebb and flow of the swell, the fish, the warmth of the sun and

of friends.

Many people look at life and see what is the

most obvious, most observable. They notice

what kind of house you live in, your clothes, or the

car you drive. They often get hung up on appearances

yet never realize that what is not so obvious can be

more important, more fulfilling and satisfying.

Passing it on

2009-07-15T14:16:00.000-07:00

Do you have something you love and want to

share with the ones you care about? What do you

hope they'll get from your sharing? What lessons

and experiences are you hoping they'll learn? We

Surfers love to share the stoke. Why?

Two recent experiences put me in touch with our

desire to "pass it on" to others. I took both my grandkids

to the beach the other morning. We strolled along the sand,

looked at shells and sand crabs, and Simon (my grandson)

walked on the deck of a surfboard. He smiled as he walked.

Thanks to the boards rocker, as he approached its' nose,

the board bounced a bit. Rather than getting scared he laughed

and moved closer to the nose bouncing as he went. As soon as

he reached the end he put his little toes

over the edge, spun around, and walked back to the tail laughing

all the way. Simon walked and bounced about 10 times before

it was time to go home. He didn't want to leave. It was too much

fun, this walking on a board. I thought a lot, as we headed home,

about just how much I want to "pass on" surfing and all its' lessons

to my grandkids.

There is a photo and podcast posted on Jim Moriarty's blog

Ocean Beaches and Waves (www.oceansbeachesandwaves.blogspot.com)

of Norman Ollestad. Ollestad is the author of the best selling book

"Crazy for the Storm". The photo, podcast, and the book all

touch upon the same theme "passing it on". Ollestad speaks of the

lessons his father taught him in the surf and how those lessons saved

his life. He also spoke about his wish to "pass it on" to his own children.

Surfing and our love for all it has to offer touches us in ways we feel

compelled to share. Despite the crowds, despite it's popularity we

still want to share not only the stoke but the real lessons to be learned

from the surfing life.

Sustainability

2009-07-07T17:19:00.000-07:00

I love Yvon Chouinard the founder of

Patagonia. He is a surfer, fisherman, hiker,

climber, a businessman, and an environmental

hero. If you aren't familiar with Patagonia and

the company's philosophy you should be. Do some

reading and get Chouinard's book "Let my people

go surfing" and it just might change your perspective

on your own habits. Check out some of the talks he's

given that are posted on YouTube. "Live an examined

life, examine everything you do" is Yvon's credo.

In my office I call it mindfulness or intentionality.

You might also see it as doing what you do on purpose.

Living an intentional, mindful life can make you happier

healthier, and give you more peace. The Patagonia philosophy

asks the same thing of business. Act intentionally, live, consume,

and even manufacture in an examined purposeful way.

The best consumer is one who consumes less. Simplify

your life in order to make it sustainable. You'll feel a nice

sense of freedom when you do. As I've written before,

resources, whether they be our human resources or the earth's

are finite. Make them last.

Healing

2009-07-01T12:47:00.000-07:00

The human body has an infinite ability to

heal itself. The human psyche is also an amazing thing.

Working together the mind and the body can work

what some might think are miracles. They can't

however, work their miracles without action on your part,

without your help.

A wound will heal if you keep it clean and bandaged

properly. A bone will heal if you help it along by

proper rest, nutrition, and time. A spirit can heal

with the help of others, a reframing of how you

look at a problem, and a belief.

My cast came off today! The healing of my broken ankle

continues. My spirit is soaring knowing that I can return

to the ocean. My doctor told me I can swim, paddle, bike

ride, kyak,fish and return to pretty much everything that does not

require impact. "Let it heal a bit more before popping up

on your board" he told me. "No worries" I replied with

my spirit high. Can't wait to get wet. How do others do it

I wonder? How do they heal without the ocean, without surfing?

Don't ask for permission, beg for forgiveness

2009-06-26T08:29:00.000-07:00

This morning the waves at the end of my street were

really, really good. Another morning of light offshores

and surf. My patience continues to be put to the test.

Let's see that's 9 days in a row 15 out of the 24 days that I've

been sidelined. "Patience grasshopper" my friends all say.

"I don't even want to tell you how good it is" caring friends

are saying. " I won;t even talk about it." At least I've

learned to laugh and take some pleasure at

being called "the sacrifice".

Today is the kind of day that surfers scheme and try to

figure out all sorts of ways to blow off work and shirk most

other responsibilities. Bosses get called, lawns don't get mowed,

kids get taken to sitters all to stay in the water as much as

possible. Days like today, and stretches like this, are rare

and impressive.

As I sat watching and mindsurfing in the early morning

sunlight I heard my friend Ryan tell another surfer who

was about to call his wife and ask if he could stay out a bit longer.

" today's the kind of day you don't ask permission, you

surf and beg for forgiveness later." How true.

Ground Hog Day Mindsurfing

2009-06-24T04:57:00.000-07:00

When asked by the anchor person about the weather

forecast for today, the t.v. meteorologist smiled and

replied "you know that movie Ground Hogs Day where

every day is an exact replica of the day before it?".

That's what we've been dealing with here in NJ for about

2 months. Each day is about the same with clouds, grey

skies, and some rain. If you are a golf fan and watched the

US Open you saw firsthand.

The flip side of this weather has been the surf. The low

pressure system that is, in part, responsible for this sameness

is also responsible for a pretty decent stretch of rideable surf.

Since I broke my ankle 22 days ago and since then there's

been plenty of surf....figures.

I've watched loads of waves being ridden

and have actually been mindsurfing plenty of them myself.

Watching from the beach I feel myself paddle, pop up, and ride each

wave I see. I can actually feel my body respond, feel my muscles

react as set my back foot, turn, float a section, or hit the lip. I've

not always been mindsurfing the same board either. Some days

I've used my fish, a few days my log, and others my Skip Frye egg.

Curoiusly I've not yet tried my bonzer or quad yet. My body

doesn't yet know how they'll feel. Kind of weird isn't it?

I've taught many clients about using mental imagery for a host

of different purposes. It's a blast to have yet another opportunity

to use it myself, to gain deeper insight into its' power. Still, I can't

wait to get back in the water but for now...gotta go, there are perfect

little peelers I need to ride. Not sure which board I'll use yet.

Hope, optimism and sadness

2009-06-18T17:24:00.000-07:00

If there is one thing we, as surfers, seem to have

it's a sense of hopefulness. We are always hoping

that there will be waves, that the wind will be right,

that it won't be too crowded etc. etc. Hope and

a sense of optimism are wonderful and sustaining things.

Sadly, when one has lost that sense of hope, lost all

optimism, life can seem unbearable. I'm sure we all

know of someone like that, someone who has given

up hope and adopted the perspective of pessimism.

All they can see is darkness and despair. They become

convinced that the waves will never get better. They confuse

feelings for facts.

I've been touched, once again, by another death of someone

I know. Unfortunately, they'd been consumed by hopelessness

and pessimism for many months. They were suffering believing

that their feelings were facts. How sad to end the human

experience in such a way. How unfortunate that they

were unable to believe that despite all the rain, clouds,

wind, and cold, a new swell will come, the wind will again blow

offshore, the sun will come out. I can only take some comfort

knowing that at least I was with them for the final parts of their

journey listening, sharing and trying to help provide some

hope and optimism. Trying to let them know feelings and facts

are two different things.

All I can do now is remember, feel touched by their spirit, and

learn yet another lesson as I surf the waves of life.

Adaptation

2009-06-15T12:58:00.000-07:00

At one time or another every surfer, I dare say, every

person has to make some sort of adaptation, some sort

of adjustment to the things the ocean and life throw at us.

You don't ride a soft mushy beach break wave the same way

you ride a a hollow, ledgy, reef break. You can't use the same

board to ride Tres Palmas or Sunset as you do to ride Malibu.

We all have to make adjustments is our approach and in our

lives.

Often I see clients who have a difficult time making adjustments

and adapting to new situations. Sometimes it's a change in their

job status, sometimes it's the loss of a loved one, at other times

it might be adapting to a chronic illness, whatever it is we all

must learn to adjust and adapt.

As trite as it may sound, I've had to make my own adaptations

and adjustments as I heal from a broken ankle. I can't, or should

I more accurately say, should not be walking or putting too much

weight on my ankle. That means no surfing, walking, or running.

So how do I get my cardiovascular exercise in? How can I do my

yoga? How can I have physical fun? The answer is simple...adapt.

There are plenty of yoga postures I can do. There are plenty of

strength training exercises I can do. If I speed up my workout I

can get my heart rate going. If I eat less I don't have to worry about

the calories I am not burning. I can hang out with my friends,

enjoy being with, and watching them. Get pleasure from their

pleasure.

How are you adapting to the changes life has presented to you?

Are you trying to do the same thing the same way? Is your thinking

stuck? Are you feeling so insecure or afraid to make change? Try it.

Change your perspective, change your board, change the way you

ride the waves of your life. See these things as a challenge not a threat.

It's fun.

Did you get in the water?

2009-06-10T15:48:00.000-07:00

A few days ago I attended the funeral of my dear

friend Brian's wife Janice. She'd battled cancer for too long

and died friday night at home amongst the people

she loved. At the memorial service I heard someone

ask Brian "did you get in the water this weekend?"

How odd and inappropriate that question must have

seemed to some of the distant family members and

friends paying their respects. What kind of idiot would

ask such a question of a man who'd just lost his soul mate,

his wife, his lover? " I did" Brian replied. "It was the only

thing that kept me sane, kept me together...when I was in the

water, for a time I was all right".

As surfers we all can relate to what Brian said. We've

all experienced the healing and soothing

power of the ocean and of surfing. We've all probably had

some kind of experience where we've found solace, peace, and

escape in the waves.

There are surely many explanations and reasons why

we find surfing such a powerful and potent experience. It's really not

that important to know why is it?. Let's just be grateful

that we can, and do.

Did you get in the water today?

Fish out of water

2009-06-05T10:21:00.000-07:00

The ocean is a wonderful source of new and interesting

experiences and opportunities. Just ask any surfer.

They'll tell you about something they've recently

experienced that was "a first" for them, that was novel

and new no matter how long they've been surfing. That's

one of the great joys of surfing there is always something

new to learn, something novel to experience, some new

challenge.

This past Tuesday my friend Pete and I went for a early

morning paddle on our SUP's. The ocean was pretty glassy.

Every now and than there was a hint of an offshore light wind.

We paddled for a few hours and upon our return to where we'd

entered the water realized that there were long, tiny, perfect waves

breaking over the sandbar. Ankle to knee high peelers

can be real fun on an SUP. The only other person in the

water was one of the 40 something surf girls loving the chance

to practice, loving being in the ocean

We each must have caught a hundred waves. As the tide dropped

the inside got pretty shallow. Finishing off a wave without

getting your fin stuck in the hard sand was becoming a

real challenge. That's when it happened...my new experience.

I'm sure there is a formula or equation in physics that could

explain exactly how it happened... something to do with velocity,

force, weight, distance or such. I tried to step off my gliding board

knowing that the water was barely 10 inches deep. Guess I landed

wrong, immediately I felt my right ankle jam on the hard bottom.

Ouch! Nothing so bad that it ended the session, but despite the cool

56 degree water I realized something was not right.

I'd broken my ankle!

I'm in a cast and out of the water for about 6 weeks. That's

never happened to me! What does a surfer do for 6 weeks

with no hope of surfing? How will I walk the dog on the beach?

I feel like a fish out of water. Guess I'll figure it out. Another

new experience, another opportunity to learn something just

not in the water this time.

Saltwater Buddha

2009-05-30T02:49:00.000-07:00

Surfing and our relationship with it can provide

amazing life lessons. Those of you who are regular

(or irregular) readers know that looking for and finding

those lessons is a passion for me. Seems I'm not the only

one.

Just finished reading Jaimal Yogi's book Saltwater Buddha:

A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea". It's a good read

for sure. Jaimal chronicles his journey's as he attempts to

run and escape certain aspects of life, learn and live in Zen

retreats, and become a surfer. Becoming a surfer is different

than learning to surf. One is a lifestyle and philosophy, the

other a sportlike pastime.

Saltwater Buddha is the kind of book that contains little

pearls here and there. Lessons from an observer who becomes

a participant. That's always a good thing to do in life, jump

in participate rather than always observe from the sidelines.

What are you watching from the sidelines that you really should

be doing?

Hesitation

2009-05-22T03:49:00.000-07:00

I never seem to tire of hearing clients tell

me how they have learned lessons from their

experiences in the surf. It is amazing how surfing

and the ocean can present us with important

insights into ourselves.

A young client of mine recently told me

he'd discovered that when surfing he

frequently finds himself pulling back, hesitating

when finds himself at the ledge, especially on steep

waves. " I never seem ready to push

myself over, to take that last stroke and drop in.

It looks too steep... I feel afraid, doubt myself, and end up

going over the falls...You know, I think

I do that a lot in my life too" he said almost as a sidebar.

" I never get barreled" he added. I could almost

see the light bulb go on in his head.

Pulling back when you should go for it based on fear

can prevent us all from achieving our life's goals and our

own dreams. How do you pull back? How has hesitation

kept you from the barrel? From the joy of the tube?

A car filled with bottlecaps

2009-05-17T10:42:00.000-07:00

Do you have any idea what over 50,000 bottle caps

look like? Right now, after a winter's worth of

collecting, there are 17 large, clear trash bags filled

with bottle caps filling my Honda Element. We

counted the caps in 1 bag and realized that there

were about 3,000. The 50,000 or so caps

in my car are going to "meet up" with the collections

of others. I'm excited, afraid, and a bit disgusted when

I try to imagine just how many caps I'll see all in 1 place.

Clean Ocean Action is a New Jersey based non-profit that

for decades has been doing great work. COA and it's members

have labored long and hard to educate, lobby, protest, and help

bring light on the issues related to "our mother ocean". Today

they are having a big beach party to help further fund the good

work they do. One of the highlights of the event will be the

gathering of the bottle caps. I hope this overwhelming collection

can serve to illustrate the nature of our impact, the thoughtlessness

of our actions, the needlessness of our country's plastic addiction.

Everything you and I do has a significant impact on our oceans and

our planet. Please stop thoughtlessly using plastic. Check out the

Rise Above Plastics web site, look at the movie Synthetic Sea, lobby

your local and state officials. We all must act to stop the insanity

that is our use of plastics.

Next time you go to the beach look around at the plastic on

the beach. Next time you surf look at the plastic in the water.

Next time you snorkel look at the mess we have made. We made

this mess, we can stop messing up and take steps to clean it up.

Making the match

2009-05-03T18:52:00.000-07:00

I love putting people together. It is a real

good feeling when I can help make connections

that work. Today was such a day and I've been

smiling all afternoon.

Jon is a friend and fellow dog walker with surfing

roots in both North County San Diego and Montauk,

NY. He rides and values boards shaped by the masters.

He's got killer boards from both Donald Takayama and

Toby Pavel. You know, the kind of boards that you stop

to admire and seem compelled to hold imagining how they

might feel on a wave.

Scott, aka "the Mopper", is the kind of surfer whose smooth

understated style gets attention both here in NJ and in

Rincon PR where he spends his winters. He is equally

comfortable and owns boards for 2 foot mushburgers

and macking 20 foot Tres Palmas. Scott also has an

amazing collection of vintage boards some so rare that

even the Surfing Heritage Foundation has been coveting

one or two.

Jon was telling me about a 9'0" Pavel gun that he had made for

Todos Santos but has never ridden. It was an aqua colored

beauty. Not too many people here in NJ can truly appreciate

or ride that board or the waves it was intended for. Scott needed

to replace a favorite big wave gun since breaking his beloved 9

footers this winter at Tres. "Jon this is Scott, Scott this is Jon" I

said knowing that they'd be stoked to meet and talk story. Of

course I knew that Jon's Pavel was right up Scott's alley. That's

all it took to make 2 friends happy, to connect 2 great guys, to make

the match. Made my day!

Breathe in, Breathe out, Move on

2009-04-17T12:32:00.000-07:00

I surfed this morning and it actually felt like a

warm sunny spring day. April here in NJ isn't

always like that it is generally chillier than we'd like,

grayer than we'd hope, and wetter than we want.

This year has been no exception as

we really have had our share of chilly April showers.

Not today, today we've got sun, warmth and waves

On my way to the line-up I passed a friend of mine,

a chiropractor by profession. We greeted each other

with a smile and a knowing nod. Robert (the chiropractor)

had posted a simple message on his facebook page a few

days ago. The post was headed something like 3 simple rules for

living. The rules were; 1) breathe in, 2) breathe out, 3) repeat.

It reminded me of a Jimmy Buffet lyric "Breathe in,

breathe out, move on".

As our session went on I kept thinking about those simple

rules and realized a few more. Surfing does make you think

sometimes. A simple rule of surfing is stay in the moment and

go with what the wave gives you. Today, with the swell angle not

being ideal, that rule was key. Sometimes the lefts would wedge

up and you could find a tight little barrel. At other times there was

a fun right with a nice little bowl. Every once in a while a

lined up right wall would appear. We had fun with them all.

Taking what mother ocean gave us.

I paddled in recalling another simple rule, be grateful for what

you have. I left the beach with a smile on my face and a song in

my head, "Breathe in, Breathe out, Move on". Thanks Jimmy,

thanks Robert for the reminder.

Shark

2009-04-13T13:57:00.000-07:00

About a week or so ago the body of a 4 1/2 foot

Mako shark showed up on the beach. How this

particular shark found its' way to the beach is a

bit of a mystery and it is curious just how much

interest and emotion the shark arrival has created.

For some surfers there were the initial unsettling

feelings. "I've surfed that break since I was a kid

and never really thought about a big shark being there,

kinda freaks me out" one said. "I saw the shark and

got an uneasy feeling in my stomach" said one of

the 40 something surf girls who has, in fact,

only recently overcome a fear of the ocean.

For other folks the shark mystery brought on

feelings of sadness and anger. Mako sharks don't

usually live in 43 degree water. How did this one

get here. The shark had its' fin, jaw and teeth intact but

had been gutted. Who would do such a thing to a shark?

Some blame the death on commercial fisherman, their

large nets and their propensity to kill fish in a thoughtless

way. The ocean, according to many experts, has lost 90%

of it's large species. It is rapidly being depleted as a food

source thanks to thoughtless fishing and human abuse.

So many thoughts and feelings from a single shark. Each day,

as it rots on the beach, it becomes more of a symbol. For most

the fear is gone replaced by questions and stark realities about

what we have done to the oceans, the planet, and to ourselves. It

is now more a symbol of sadness and a different kind of fear.

Here today gone tomorrow

2009-04-05T20:24:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was one of the better surf days in

a while. The wind was strong, about 25 mph

sustained, blowing offshore. The swell was in

the chest to head high range and there was no

shortage of wedging peaks and decent barrels.

Even in a 5 mil wetsuit it was a 2 session day.

Today the wind backed off a bit, the sun was bright

and the sky a clear blue. A beautiful spring day but

the swell was gone. Ankle to knee high peeling waves

greeted us this morning and kept me thinking about

what a difference a day can make. Here yesterday, gone

today. I'm stoked I got to enjoy the day yesterday, to

take advantage of the moment(s) while they lasted.

Life is certainly like our waves. What a difference a

day, an hour, a few seconds can make. So much in

our lives are like the oceans waves, here today and

gone tomorrow. A good job one day, gone the next.

A pile of assets one day, gone the next (or for many, what

seems like the next). Many things seem as if they are

here today gone tomorrow. So what do you learn from

this basic reality? Yesterday I surfed, today I relished

the time I spent with friends and family. I know that

in life as in surfing things change quickly.

Simon is one year old today

2009-03-28T05:23:00.000-07:00

My grandson Simon is a year old today. What

amazing changes have taken place in these 12 short

months. His world, his capabilities and ours are

surely different than they were one year ago.

A year ago most weren't thinking about the global

recession, didn't know what AIG was. A year ago

a glacier in Iceland was a few feet larger than it

is today. A year ago billions of plastic bags had yet

to be manufactured and millions of plastic water

bottles had yet to be filled, emptied, and discarded

thoughtlessly. I wonder what a years worth of trash and

runoff look like?

How much sugar did you eat in a year? How much oil

have you used? How many miles have you walked,

peddled or swam? How many waves have you caught?

Have you loved or lost someone special this year?

A year can mean a lot to each and every one of us and

to our lives. A year can impact our planet in significant

ways. A a gift to Simon, if I can be so presumptuous,

please take better care of yourselves, your loved ones,

your fellow humans, and our precious planet this year.

Do what you can each day for yourself and for Simon. Thanks!

No Blue No Green

2009-03-23T04:23:00.000-07:00

Yesterday the water here at my local break

was crystal clear. We were joking in the

lineup that it was "almost tropical". The almost

part was directly related to the temperature, about

43 degrees, not the clarity. The beautiful blue

green water and the amazing visibility added a nice

dimension to a familiar break. Seeing the rocks as

we surfed over them really enhanced the experience.

The beautiful water reminded me of a recent talk

I heard by Dr. Sylvia Earle. Please check it out it's

on a thought provoking web site TED.com. Dr. Earle,

on of the planets pre-eminent ocean scientists, sounds

the call for all of us. Our oceans are not healthy. Without

healthy oceans our planet is in peril. As she puts it "no

blue, no green".

That concept, taking care of our most basic resources,

really struck me as profound on many levels. Sure

it's true for the planet, but it is also true on a personal

level. If we pollute our bodies with chemical junk

how can we be healthy? If we don't exercise the way

we should we can't expect to be well. If our thoughts

are toxic how can we expect to be happy?

All our resources are finite. If we don't take care of them

we can't be healthy. Seems to me a quote from my

old friend Doc Paskowitz seems to sum up our overall

state of affairs these days. Let me paraphrase " just

because you're not sick doesn't mean you're healthy".

Let's all work on health for ourselves and our planet.

Sunrises and Sunsets

2009-03-16T18:55:00.000-07:00

Today my dog Happy and I watched as the sun emerged

from the ocean to start a day. It was a truly beautiful

sunrise. The sun was a brilliant orange red color and

there was not a cloud in the sky. First we watched as a

tiny orange sliver appeared on the horizon. Little by

little that sliver grew in size as the sky lit up with

beautiful color. After a few minutes the ball of the sun

was over the ocean.

Happy and I were alone even though it was 7 am. Why

is it that crowds gather in most west facing places to

watch the sun go down but rarely are there crowds to

watch the sun come up? Surely it is an equally beautiful

and inspiring sight. I thought so although I can't speak for

Happy. We'll be back tomorrow to watch it again, no crowds,

no cocktails, no music, just peace, quiet and the promise of

another day.

When stormy seas calm down

2009-03-12T13:45:00.000-07:00

As surfers we are addicted to watching the ocean.

Some days the winds howl and seem to be

blowing in every which direction making for big

angry seas with out of control, unrideable surf. On

those days we watch and wait. The winds eventually

turn more favorable and organize the surf

into something more manageable, more lined up.

As the storm subsides and the sun comes out we know

that all will be well, that we will surf. Not everyone

knows what we do.

Today a client of mine discussed the recent months

in his life. He'd been experiencing stormy conditions

with out of control seas. Illness and family stress can

do that.

We engaged in imagery training during

our session using the ocean image, my client seemed to

respond. He was able to calm his mind and body. He was

able to see the out of control seas of his life line up and

become rideable. The lesson we, as surfers, all know

is a valuable one in helping us all get through tough times.

Almost perfect

2009-03-08T18:35:00.000-07:00

This evening was almost perfect! The sky was

clear blue and the wind calmed a bit after 4

days of 30 mph + sustained winds. A great surf band,

the Supertones, was playing at Calypso for happy hour.

The crowd of Rincon regulars sprinkled with tourists

and those making their annual surf pilgramage were

all in place enjoying the vibe.

Calypso is a wonderful place to watch sunset and tonight

seemed just about perfect. Everyone looked westward

as the sun began its' decent into the ocean. The music

played and the anticipation of one of the best sunsets

in weeks was in the air. Than it happened. With about

2 minutes to go a tiny cloud, the only cloud in the sky,

drifted ever so slowly towards the setting sun.

You could feel the momentary let down as the sun moved

behind the cloud. Ahh.

An almost perfect sunset. Oh well there will be another

chance tomorrow. That's what is so nice about tomorrows.

There is always another chance. For tonight, almost perfect

was really good. A great ending to another day. Celebrate

all your days.

Gratitude

2009-03-04T09:07:00.000-08:00

How lucky am I? I've been here in Puerto Rico

watching NJ suffer through not only the most

significant snowfall they've had in years, but more

frigid temperatures and wind chills.

It has been with mixed feelings that I've watched

the weather reports these past few days. Obviously,

I'm grateful to be here and not digging, scraping,

and freezing, but I also feel great empathy for the

people who are there. A storm and cold snap in

March is hard. Most everyone has about had it

with winter and is counting the days until spring.

As someone recently commented about winter

"I'm over it!".

Here I sit writing after a morning surf session, outside

on the deck, with the breeze gently blowing, and the sun

periodically escaping behind clouds. Am I grateful!!!

Gratitude, research tells us, is an important ingredient

of happiness. Being grateful for what you have rather

than looking at the things you don't makes us all

feel better. It also helps to look at those who are less

fortunate than we are. Lord knows there is a world

full of people less fortunate. Realize that you are blessed,

be grateful.

I'm heading out for another session - don't mean to rub

it in. I am grateful and lucky.

There must be a tool for that

2009-02-28T14:37:00.000-08:00

This afternoon, after my post surf session siesta, I found

myself sitting outside at a friends house with a few others

hanging out, talking about the the nothing in particular.

As is usually the case in situations like these topics came

and went in no particular order, often blending one into

another in a stream of consciousness manner.

Elliot had spent part of his day removing grout from tile.

He was raving about how he'd hit upon a tool and system that

seemed to work really well. After a few minutes of us

teasing him as he described how he did it, Scott smiled and

with a wink announced sheepishly "there is actually a power

tool for that...could have made your job much easier".

Leon talked about a new gadget that he was installing

to boost a mobile phone signal. It's an essential

tool for him. He loves to pace when he's on the phone

and lives in a place where when he paces he looses the

signal and call.

I described a problem I was having with a screw that

holds the cross bar in place on my car roof rack. I've

tried all sorts of tools to hold the thing in place, spent

hours on it before giving up. My problem became

a group challenge. After a number of attempts using

surf wax to hold the back of the plate in place, Dave

hit upon an idea. We needed something that had a 90

degree bend that, with the help of the surf wax, could

secure the plate in place as the screw was aligned.

He rummaged through the garage and came out with a

saw. A saw, a punch, a screw driver, some surf wax 2

men actively working and 3 watching.

My roof rack is fixed! There must be a tool that

would have made the job easier but certainly not as

much fun or as memorable.

Footprints

2009-02-24T11:45:00.000-08:00

When the air gets really cold the sand along the

high tide line freezes. When that happens there

are no footprints on the frozen sand. Sounds rather

obvious but I suspect there are lots of people for whom

the idea of frozen sand is a novel concept.

As I walked along the beach today, on the hard frozen

sand, I got to thinking a lot about footprints. Much is written

these days about all sorts of footprints. Understanding the

"footprint" concept has become an important part of our

environmental awareness. Do you know your carbon footprint,

your water footprint, the footprints of the clothes you wear or

items you consume? We need to at least understand the

concept and think about these footprints and their impact.

I saw a sign at that read "leave only footprints". I know that

the sign was intended to urge us not to leave our trash behind.

Not a bad idea even in the most general meaning of the word

trash, but that sign got me thinking about footprints in yet

another way. What footprints will you leave behind for your

children, grandchildren? My friend CJ Olivares likes to say he

wants to leave the world better than he found it. He take steps

to do so, hopes to leave his own footprints.

What footprints are you making as you walk through your

life, what footprints will you be leaving behind? It's kind of

unusual and rare for the sand to be frozen like it was today.

It's really rare that we make no footprints.

Shifting Paradigms

2009-02-21T12:38:00.001-08:00

I read an interesting piece earlier today.

The author, a dedicated 6'2" thruster devotee, was

commenting how he'd ridden a Campbell Brothers

Bonzer recently, and has become a "convert". He'd

totally changed his perspective on surfing, surfboards

and surfboard design.

He's not alone it seems. After the false apocalypse

that was the death of Clark Foam, many surfers and

shapers have changed the way they look at their surfing,

their boards, and their mindsets.

Some are trying to recreate old shapes out of new

materials, others adapting and improving upon

those old designs, while even others are going way back to

the past and reconnecting with surfing's roots. Fish, quads,

bonzers, wood boards, epoxy, bamboo boards, a total shift

in wave riding equipment is taking place.

The piece made me think that we, as individuals and as

a culture, need to change some of our perspectives, shift

our paradigms. Opening to new ways of thinking from the

past as well as looking at the future with an eye towards

how things can be different can help us get out of the

economic, environmental, and psychological state we seem

to be in these days.

Some days you're just not supposed to

2009-02-19T13:25:00.000-08:00

Some days I guess you are just not supposed to

do certain things. You can't fight it or get too mad

about it. About all you can do is go with it, accept

it, not obsess or ruminate, and try to laugh at it.

Today was just one of those days!

Thursday is, for me generally a very busy day. It is

the one day that I have to leave the house early to

see patients in The Center for Pain Control. The Center

is about a 30 minute drive. I see patients there and consult

in the morning and than head to my own office to see

patients in the afternoon into the evening. I'm a dummy,

Thursday is generally my late night. Guess I figure if

I've got to be in early I may as well work late. I know

it makes little sense but...

Strange how many swells we get on Thursday's. Today was

a perfect example. Most would agree that the surf has been

really poor here in NJ this winter. In fact I can't remember

a worse winter. It's also felt like a cold winter. Well, this

morning at sunrise it was sunny and unseasonably warm,

about 44 degrees, not bad for mid February. The wind was

gentle and offshore and the surf in the chest to shoulder

range. No surf for me today! To add insult to injury today

my wife is leaving for 3 weeks in Puerto Rico and the surf

she'll encounter upon her arrival looks really good too.

Oh well, some days you're just not supposed to do certain

things. Guess I wasn't supposed to surf today. There will be

other days I'm sure. No worries, no complaints!

Surf shops

2009-02-14T17:31:00.000-08:00

I love the feature on Surfline (www.surfline.com)

about surf shops. In my view local surf shops are

unique and wonderful places. That's especially true

I think in colder climates and in places where waves

are less consistent.

Today was a bit chilly and blustery here in NJ. It

wasn't frigid or anything like that but it wasn't the

kind of day you'd want to spend long hours outdoors.

Many of us, by mid February, have been stuck inside

long enough. To add to the cabin fever feeling, this winter

hasn't had the most frequent or consistent surf. So

where do you go to connect with the surfing culture on

a day like today? A local surf shop.

You can almost always count on running into someone

at the shop. They aren't there necessarily to buy anything,

although they usually they end up with something. They

are there more to hang out, talk a bit, watch some of a new

film, avoid the honey do list, and discuss the world. Often

they bring their kids. Today I encountered a 3 year old trying

to get a skateboard moving, arms held out in a classic pose.

Of course the munchkin was dressed like a miniature surf

rat with tiny Uggs, jeans, unkempt hair and all.

What a great way to kill some time. Can't do that at Walmart

or Costco. Support your local surf shop. There are few places

like it.

Too much of a good thing

2009-02-12T13:57:00.000-08:00

We had a really solid swell today, an offshore

wind, and fairly mild temperatures. Offshore

winds are usually a good thing but not when they

blow at about 30 mph sustained with gusts close

to 50 mph. Too much of a good wind can knock a

swell down in no time.

Today's wind somehow got me to think that we,

as a society, just might be in the straights we are

in because we had too much of a good thing and

we weren't really mindful of the consequences.

Too much cheap gas, too much plastic, too much

easy credit, too much consumerism, too much overall

gluttony is not a good thing. As we face the new

challenges of today perhaps it is a good idea to ask

of ourselves just how much do I need? How much is

enough to make me content?

Strong gusty offshore winds can serve to teach us

many lessons. Sometimes too much of a good thing

isn't really a good thing.

Shades of Blue

2009-02-09T14:15:00.000-08:00

This morning the sky was a beautiful clear blue.

The ocean, even with it's flatness, was yet another

shade of blue. Despite the beauty of nature all around

me I was a different shade of blue. The kind of blue

that comes with a sad reflective feeling.

I'm reading Thomas Friedman's book "Hot, Flat and Crowded".

It is a book that we all should be reading. Unfortunately

the facts of our changed world, it's finite resources, and the

infinite demands of the earth's population as it grows, does

not present a very positive picture. It doesn't bode well for

my grandkids.

My mood was also coloredby a talk I watched given by

Charlie Moore of the Agalita Foundation. Charlie is one of the

foremost authorities on plastics in the marine environment.

You can see that talk on the Jim Moriarty's blog at

www.surfrider.org. Please do the planet a favor and take the

30 minutes to watch it. One of the things that struck me was

a slide of a WWII victory poster. It's message was simple and

all too relevant in this time of economic and environmental crisis.

We'd do well to live by that message

today. Conserve, walk to work, plant a garden, and don't waste

precious resources. Our consumer based, afluenza ridden ways

are deadly.

Friedman's book, Charlie's talk, listening to rigid partisan

spokespeople on the Sunday news shows ridicule and criticize

those who don't agree with them is enough to make anyone blue.

As Charlie Moore and others are saying "shift happens". We need

to learn from the past, change the tired old paradigms we use

to think about and solve problems. My generation has contributed

to making a total mess out of things. Let's all take action to change

the shade of blue that leads to despair and degradation.

Snow on the beach

2009-02-04T09:03:00.000-08:00

Snow on the beach are 4 words that just shouldn't

go together. Not the image most of us like to

hold in our minds eye as a fantasy. Snow on the

beach is exactly what we got today here in NJ. Thanks

to a coastal storm we got about 3-4 inches of snow

yesterday. There was snow up to the high tide line.

If you have never seen snow on the beach you should!

In fact, today convinced me that I need to add photos to

some of these posts. It's kind of neat to go to the beach

on a crystal clear morning and see snow. I'll admit that

it's not my favorite beach sight but, what the heck. As

one of the 40 something surf girls said "isn't it beautiful?"

It was in its' own way.

The beach and ocean offer up many moods and are full of

surprises...just like life. Many moods and many surprises.

What helps keep us balanced is how we cope with these

moods, these surprises. It's not the snow on the beach

that presents a problem or creates the mood, it's how

you look at the snow, how you think about it. How do

you think about your problems - your snow? How does

your snow impact your mood?

Oh yes, there were waves and a few hearty souls out surfing.

That's another tale for another day.

1/31/09 Asbury Park

2009-01-31T15:33:00.000-08:00

The sun is bright. The sky is an amazing blue.

Frozen sand crunches and squeaks as I walk.

Happy runs playfully exploring sticks, rocks, and

assorted beach stuff. There isn't a soul around, must be

the cold. According to "your local weather on the 8's"

it is 21 degrees and with the wind chill factor 11. I hate

the cold but I must admit there is something special about

today.

As I walk south along the beach I see the same view of

Convention Hall that Mickey Rourke sees in the "Wrestler".

The same views that appear in Springstein videos. Something

about a deserted Asbury Park in the winter that is haunting,

special.

After about an hour or so a few other dogs and their owners

appear. The spell is broken. Happy and I are both kind of

glad to have the company.

Look closely

2009-01-25T15:39:00.000-08:00

The beach at Domes in Rincon Puerto Rico

is an interesting place. Sure people know

it for the punchy waves that break there. It is

also infamous as a break loved by pesky swarms

of body boarders. On weekends or when the beach

becomes a contest site it transforms into real a cultural

scene.

One of my favorite things about the beach however is

something many people overlook. The northeastern

section of beach is home to thousands of hermit crabs.

You barely notice them at first but when you take the

time to look closely you realize that the beach is filled

with crabs crawling everywhere. When I first point

them out to visitors they are amazed at the sight.

The world and our lives are filled with little wonderful

things that we can only see when we look closely. All

to often we don;t see what is all around and what makes

being alive on this planet a wonder and a miracle. Try

looking closely at the little things.

Saved by the Sea

2009-01-21T17:26:00.000-08:00

David Helvarg is an exceptional writer and ocean

activist. If you have never seen his books 50 Ways to

Save the Ocean and the Blue Frontier you should check

them out. He also masterminded an upcoming conference

called the Blue Vision Summit in Washington DC scheduled

for early March. Google it and check it out.

David recently wrote an article on emagazine.com entitled

"Saved by the Sea". It surely resonated with me and I'm sure

it will with many of you as well. The ocean is such

important place for so many of us. It provides peace, solice,

joy, respite, and wonder. I am drawn to the sea like so

many of you, like so many in history.

It gives us so much we all must do what we can to repay our

debt. Become an activist who is committed to saving the

seas, return the favor. How many times have you been

"Saved by the Sea"?

A Surfer's Farewell

2009-01-19T15:17:00.000-08:00

Have you ever witnessed a memorial paddle out for a

surfer who has died? Have you ever been a participant?

These ceremonies may seem strange to the uninitiated,

somewhat mysterious.

Surfer's gather on the beach huddle together exchanging

nods or brief hellos, take the flowers or lei's

that someone thoughtfully brought, and after a few moments

all paddle out into the ocean. Once they have arrived at

a spot out past the lineup, past the breakers, they form a

circle facing inward. Someone who knew the departed surfer

well usually begins by saying a few words about their friend, others

take their turn. Words are often touching memories and at times

humorous comments. Tears mix with smiles. The paddlers draw in

the circle holding hands as someone usually begins a chant. The

flowers are tossed into the center of the circle as a final goodbye

than the assembled surfers head to shore hopefully catching a wave

for their comrade. There are hoots and hollers and all too soon

the ceremony is over.

Yesterday I took part in such a paddle out. Alan Wolf was a surfer

I knew only casually. He always shared his joy and aloha spirit with

everyone in the lineup. His warmth and connection with the seasonal

community of Rincon was obvious. That sense of community really

touched me as I looked around the circle. Faces I've seen for years,

some who I knew as friends or by name, others with whom I'd

exchanged a friendly nod.

This is, in part, what being a surfer is about. Being part of

a community,sharing a love of a place and a of a lifestyle that

binds us together. This is what can and should be an example

to us all. We are all part of a much larger community, all share

a planet. We are all in this together for a short while. To

paraphrase or quote Gandhi - be the change you want to

see in the world.

universal unconsciousness

2009-01-14T18:28:00.000-08:00

Today was the first day of an Alberta Clipper cold

front. For those who (unlike most surfers) are not

devotees of the Weather Channel, and who can't rattle

off the first and last names of at least 8 on air meteorologists,

an Alberta Clipper is a fast moving cold front coming

from the Arctic region that sends strong NW winds and frigid

temperatures into the central and eastern US. When I

say cold I mean cold, high temperatures under 20 degrees and

wind chills around zero. Nasty, bone chilling, cold winter

weather.

No surprise that today my phone began to ring. Friends asking

if I was heading to Puerto Rico anytime soon. Each of the

callers, none of whom knew each other, all had the same

thoughts in mind. Alberta Clippers, more times than not, make for

the kind of swells that light up PR. My callers I'll bet all had the

same sequence of thoughts that went something like this - " a big

cold front... PR should be good... it's after the holidays and fares might

be cheap... it's too cold to do anything here... I'd love to get away and

score some warm water surf... spring and warmer water

are a long way away... I really hate 5 mils...let me get out of here and go

surf". Amazing how so many people can share the same thoughts. Is that

what George Orwell called "group think" or what Carl Jung called the

"universal unconscious"? Might it be an example of "great minds thinking alike"?

Na...probably not...surfers in cold climates are all the same. Sometimes

not so original at all. I'm outta here on Friday.

The Sustainability Paradox

2009-01-07T11:13:00.000-08:00

I love visual models that help us understand theoretical constructs

or ideas. I actually spent quite a few years of my professional life

helping refine a model of the coping process.

Models can help us organize and understand things better.

I recently came across a model that, for me, clearly illustrated the

problem we have gotten into as a species living on this wonderful

planet. We've all seen 3 ring overlapping circles - the 3 ring signs.

Oft times they are used to show how things overlap or share

certain characteristics. Well, imagine 3 circles labeled environment,

economy and health. In the center of the 3 is the smallest area where

the circles intersect. That area depicts sustainability for the economy,

for the environment, and for the health of our species.

Looking at things this way helps us see how often

what might be good for the economy (making the 2.5 million

plastic bottles we in the US use per hour) might actually not be good

for the environment, or for our health and well being. It also

shows how what might be good for the environment(conserving

finite resources) might not be good for the economy. We can also

see that what is good for the economy and/or environment might not

enhance our sense of well being or our lifestyles (living in bigger houses

or not having a waterview)

The sustainability of our oceans. our planet, and our health

depends on that small area of intersect. In a simple way it's

like the intersect of the wind, tide, and swell that we rely on for

those epic sessions

A Lucky Guy

2009-01-04T05:53:00.000-08:00

I'm a very lucky guy. It may sound trite but as the

t-shirts, hats, and posters say "Life is good". Every now

and then you have a day that reminds you just how

grateful you should be. Yesterday was that kind a day for me.

It began with my usual morning walk along the beach with

my dog Happy A clear winter day with perfect (for dreaming)

6 inch waves. Oh well, no surf. It wasn't really even that cold

thanks to Patagonia caplene base layers and a light wind. Someone I

barely know, a fellow dog walker and trash gatherer,

wished me a happy birthday. How he knew it was my

birthday remains a mystery to me. Sure was a pleasant and

kind surprise! Next came the phone calls

from family and friends wishing me well. The calls warmed

my heart, let me know that I am connected and cared about.

After seeing a few patients in the office, always a grounding

experience, I took my 91 year old mother for a walk on the

boardwalk. Sure was nice to get her out of her apartment for a bit.

Cold winters can be tough on a dependent 91 year old.

They can keep you indoors and kind of alone here at

the Jersey Shore. That's not a healthy thing. As mom and I

walked all I could do was think about how happy I am

that she is still here, still relatively healthy, still able to go for a walk.

The early evening brought more treats. Steve Mullen, the

founder of the South Jersey Chapter of Surfrider, and

a really good photographer (www.stevemullenphoto.com) was

being featured at a new art gallery in Asbury Park. A number of

friends showed up to check out Steve's work and enjoy the opportunity

to spend some time together. One couple, having just returned from

PR, was filled with stories about their trip. Another dear friend

gave me a big birthday bear hug, a card that plays "Wipeout" when

you open it, a gift certificate to my local surf shop, and a Cuban cigar!

After the gallery it was off to dinner with my wife, my kids,

their spouses, and my grandchildren. How great is that. I'm a lucky

guy. I'm blessed with good friends, a great wife and family, and

my health. It doesn't get much better than that! If you look at it

the right way I'll bet you are lucky too.

Surf girls would go!

2008-12-30T09:09:00.000-08:00

Yes... it happened yesterday! We all kind of knew that

the 40 something surf girls would go and yesterday one

of them did. Perfect small waves, sunny skies, a mild

December day, and a first brand new board how could

they resist. One went, the other almost got in a fight with

her boss trying to get out of work to catch the mid-day

incoming tide. One is stoked beyond belief, the other

still waiting, board yet to be waxed, yet to get wet. The

clock continues to tick. It's a long time before spring.

Surfing and the overall stoke that it can create is amazing.

Sharing the stoke and watching it grow in someone who'd

never expected to get bitten by the surf bug is a joyous experience.

Today on our morning beach walk all she could do was talk about

her first session on her very own board. Everything, from how

"cool" it is that wetsuits actually work to how stable and light

the new board is, was described in detail. Highlights of waves

came to life. The experience of just how clear and clean the

water was relived. It's almost as if we are following some primal

surfer instinct, something in surfer DNA that demands we "talk

story", talk about waves, experiences, joys. It's as if those sessions

are imprinted in our brains permitting us to re-live them, to feel

them and carry them with us. What a blessing.

One went - will the other go? Eddie would go!

Variations

2008-12-29T15:25:00.000-08:00

Yesterday was 60 degrees here in NJ. What a nice late

December surprise. It was the kind of day that the further

inland you were the warmer it was courtesy of a south wind

blowing at 20 mph or so. Walking on the boardwalk or at

the beach was a cool challenge while walking a mile or so

inland where the wind velocity was broken was a spring like

pleasure. What a variation.

Today brought bright sunshine, temperatures in the 40's and

a nice little south swell. The break at the end of my street

looked like Malibu with waist high peelers that went on

forever. The variation in the sandbars have made for this unusual

set-up.

The ocean, the waves, the beach, and the weather all vary. Our moods

can vary as can our outlook on things. Accepting variations rather

than fighting them can add pleasure to our lives. Appreciating that

things aren't generally the same can be a calming thought because

that means change is inevitable. Some changes will be great and changes

we welcome while others might not be so good. It's good to know

that everything eventually varies, everything eventually changes. Nothing

lasts forever.

It's all relative

2008-12-26T11:31:00.000-08:00

Yesterday we had a nice Christmas surprise. We

awoke to find some fun waist to chest sized waves,

fairly mild temperatures in the low 50's, offshore

winds, and water temperatures just below 50 degrees.

Not too bad for the end of December. Not too bad

is a relative term.

Terry Gibson is a dear friend and Florida native. He

is one of the most passionate activists I know and one

hell of a writer and editor. Terry is quite the fisherman,

hunter, and surfer and all around great travel partner. I

love that Terry can take being teased with the best of them.

Last week Terry was in NJ on a cold, blustery day when

Sandy Hook was breaking. Now when Terry talks about

cold water or cold weather you must remember that he

is a Florida boy through and through. Cold means wearing

a 3 mil wetsuit without booties in 60 degree water. That's

his cold. I'm still smiling after hearing him tell me about his

experience at Sandy Hook. " I don't know how you guys do it"

he said amongst other memorable things.

Einstein's theory of relativity may or may not apply to Terry.

I do know that for the entirety of Terry's session he was fully

experiencing the moment, fully alive and loving every cold

minute of it.

Connecting with the wave

2008-12-21T07:12:00.000-08:00

Kelly Slater is amazing and might be the bast surfer

the world has ever seen. Slater has the ability to

surf well and fit in to waves of all sizes. As he matures

it is interesting to notice how his environmental

awareness and philosophical approach to surfing

evolves.

In a recent interview Slater talked about "putting

so much heart and soul into the moment". A truly

Zen like way to look at life. He went on to describe

his approach to surfing by saying "as a wave presents

itself, you do whatever you are asked (by it) to do".

You take your lead from the wave or life, rather than trying

to impose your will upon it. In the same interview he

discussed "some kind of connection between people

and the environment, that when done the right way...

when you see people link things together in just the

right way, it's like that thing already existed, that was

what was supposed to happen. My goal, all the time,

is to feel like I'm in tune with the wave and the environment".

Isn't that how we all should look at our behavior, our

connection with our planet and all it has to offer? We

must aim to fit in, be part of, and link with the environment.

The US Oceans Commission and the Pew Oceans Commission

recommended we take an ecosystems management approach

to looking at the ocean and its' worsening problems. Most of

those problems have come from us not being "in tune" as

Slater describes it, not seeing our place as part of the

ecosystem, with our oceans, or our environment.

Strive to be "in tune", to "link" and to "put your heart

and soul in the moment". Interesting thoughts from an

amazing surfer. Thanks Kelly

Surf girls get their boards

2008-12-17T12:19:00.000-08:00

The "40 something surf girls" custom ordered surfboards

have finally arrived! Sure it took forever for them to get here

and Bill Stewart and his gang in San Clemente should be ashamed

of themselves - (4 months, come on Bill), but the boards are here

and the "surf girls" are stoked!

What surfer will ever forget that first new board?

Mine was a 10'2", orange, Lanai Kai pop out purchased for

$100 or so from a local sporting goods store. Why

I got a 10'2" I'll never know as I was probably weighed all

of 125 lbs. soaking wet. Who cared. It was mine!

I've had lots of new boards in the

45 or so years since then. I probably would have a

tough time even remembering them all. Ah but that first

board. I often search garage sales, flea markets, and craig's list

to see it someone might be selling it, selling an important piece

of my surfing life.

The "40 something surf girls" have displayed amazing patience

and grace over the last months. They've waited with great anticipation

and resisted getting angry or upset. Sure they missed having

their own boards for the fall season, but the waiting almost

seemed to add to their stoke. As one of them said the other day

before the news of their arrival came, " I can't get upset by things

like that, what good will it do? The board will come eventually."

What a great outlook. What a great lesson.

It's a long time until late April or May when the water here in

NJ begins to warm up. Let's see if their patience holds out,

after all the water temperature is still in the 50's and a 4 mil

wet suit works. Let's watch and see what happens if we get a

sunny warm day with fun looking surf. What do you think?

Pick up 1 item

2008-12-14T07:40:00.000-08:00

You know that I've been somewhat obsessed with picking

up bottle caps. Today, unfortunately, was a banner day. We've

had quite a bit of rain during the past week. I

filled up yet another 5 gallon bucket of caps. As I gathered my

usual bounty I noticed yet another plague, plastic cigar tips. They

are everywhere! With no particular effort I picked up hundreds

of them this morning.

I don't know very many people who smoke those little cigars

with the plastic tips. Sure I know they are a favorite of those

who smoke weed, but there can't be that many smokers can there?

It's enough to make you sick all this plastic. Guess the guy in the old

movie " The Graduate"was right when he hold the Dustin Hoffman

character that he had one word for him as he considered his future

"plastics".

If you haven't already please check out the "Rise Above Plastics" web site.

Join the campaign, take the pledge. If you aren't ready to do that how

about beginning by exercising the power of one. Next time you go to the

beach pick one plastic item...forks, spoons, straws, bottles, caps, cigar tips,

you get the idea. Bring a bag and just pick up that item. It might open

up your eyes and the eyes of those around you. Maybe you can lead by

example and encourage everyone else to do the same. Pick up 1 item, collect

it and realize the impact one person can have. Paulo Fiere, a South American

literacy leader once designed a campaign to help educate people. He called it

each one teach one. Do what you can...please?

I don't like the cold

2008-12-13T18:26:00.000-08:00

I must admit it I hate the cold weather and am not

at all a fan of winter! The older I get the more I come to

grips with that simple fact. Winter, to me, is something

to be endured not enjoyed.

This morning the wind was offshore and fairly strong.

The surf was in the chest to head high range and Loch

Arbour had pointbreak like waves peeling for 100 or so yards.

I must confess I was glad I had to go to work. I'm sure

once I put on my 5 mil wetsuit, boots, and gloves, and actually

got in the water I would have had fun but... Perhaps it's the

awareness that I've just returned from Puerto Rico and will be

heading back in a month or so. Perhaps it is my advancing age.

Maybe it's just my aversion to cold. Perhaps it's the sum of

all the parts.

Lots of folks have to endure much worse these days. My office

is filling up with clients whose concerns are much greater than

mine. Why I'm not as stoked to go surfing when the air temperature is

25 degrees with a wind chill really isn't much of a real important

issue in the bigger picture but I really don't like the cold.

The beach changes

2008-12-10T13:27:00.000-08:00

It's amazing how the ocean can rearrange a beach almost

overnight. The long groin(jetty) at the south end of Loch Arbour

goes through amazing changes from day to day and from season

to season. Most people never even notice it. Never realize

how dynamic the ocean is.

LA now looks like a point break. Sand has built up all

along the groin wide enough to walk to the end at low tide.

The dogs love it! The sand bar that has built up is huge.

The waves now peak up at the usual spot and the end of the jetty

and peel along the new sand bar just like a point break. I can't

wait for the next south swell, predicted for this week. My own

LA will look, feel, and act more like Rincon, Malibu, or J Bay

than the Jersey Shore. How cool is that?

Noticing small changes in nature and in ourselves is all part

of being "mindful", aware of all that makes up our lives. Try

being mindful, focus and take note of the little things you'd

usually never focus on like your breathing, your eating, your

walking.

A cold, calm, clean beach and a rubber candy cane

2008-12-08T14:07:00.000-08:00

Yesterday the temperatures were downright cold here in NJ.

Add to that a bitter NW wind at 30 mph and you get a great day

to stay indoors. Today the morning temperatures were in the

low 20's but the wind was calm. The beach, thanks to yesterdays

wind was covered with sand from the dunes. Not a footprint

in sight with sand like dry, cold, hard powder. No one around.

Just me and Happy my canine companion.

Today was the first time I had to put on my winter ski jacket.

To Happy's surprise stuffed in the pocket, left over from last year,

was his rubber candy cane. Seemed we'd both forgotten about it.

It took a nano second for both of us to remember just how much

he loved that candy cane. Happy eyed it with the look that one

gets when seeing a long lost friend. We both spent about an hour

or so on the beach with no one else around. I walked, he dug and

when I'd gotten far enough away he'd grab the candy cane and come

running.

Happy is originally from Puerto Rico, the dumpster at the Mayaguez

Home Depot to be exact. He and I both prefer warm water, warm air,

and palm trees, but today was pretty special. Guess we both found

joy on a cold clean beach.

Bottle caps

2008-12-04T14:18:00.000-08:00

It's become somewhat of an obsession for me, so much

that friends have noticed and are contributing to it.

I've become obsessed with picking up plastic bottle caps

from the beach. I can't set foot on a beach without noticing

them and bending over to pick them up. I've got 5 gallon buckets

filled with them stored in my basement. I'm not exactly sure

how I'll use them before sending them to be recycled but I've

got a few ideas for a guerilla media event. Imagine dump

trucks filled with these multi-colored caps being dumped at

the state capital?

These caps have become a symbol to me of a society and culture

gone wild. I recently read about how much we consume here in the

US. It is staggering something we each should be ashamed of.

We live in an obese country that can't stop stuffing itself with all

sorts of junk. Junk food, junk water bottles, junk junk. Our national obesity

is symbolic. What will stop us? How fat do we have to get before we

kill ourselves as a result of our consumptive ways? How

many tons of bottle caps will I have pick up before the ocean and the life

in it dies?

Look at your own ways. Our planet and health depends on us all.

Control what you can let go of the rest

2008-11-21T14:03:00.000-08:00

The stock market is finding new lows. Companies that

defined American industry are running low on capital and

asking congress for money. Unemployment is climbing

The housing slump continues with prices falling and foreclosures

rising. The retail Christmas projections look bleak. Time to

go surfing!

I had a great session the other day. Only 3 of us out in chest high

waves. The air and water were both pleasant by November

standards. It was one of those days when the waves keep coming

and you get a great workout...catch a wave paddle back out and catch

another. I must have had a hundred waves. What made the session

even better was the company. I surfed with 2 good friends. Ironically

both are feeling the impact of these crazy economic times. One owns

a number of retail stores, the other is in commercial real estate. You'd

never have known that these are troubles times. We laughed, joked,

commented on the glassy, clean lines in the ocean, watched as schools

of fish broke the surface not far from us. " It doesn't get better than

this" one of my buddies said.

We don't have much control over the economic woes. All we can do

is decide on a course of action and go with it. Control what you can

control, let the rest go, and enjoy the rest. What's the sense of worrying?

A sense of place

2008-11-17T19:02:00.000-08:00

I'm on a listserve of psychologists with a special interest

in conservation and the environment. Sometimes the posts

are pretty interesting, but sometimes they leave me scratching

my head. Today there was a call for papers focusing on "identity,

place, and emotional behavior". The call acknowledged that there

was a growing interest in "research investigating the complex

interactions between self and environment". It went on to

discuss "place attachment, place identity, and self environment

interactions".

Psychologists sure can make something pretty simple sound

complex! I know, and have known since I was a young child,

that I belonged near the ocean. I freak when I'm too far inland

for too long. I remember visiting Colorado, marveling at the

beauty but feeling a little uncomfortable that I was so far from

the coast. I guess that's "place identity". I love and feel

a sense of happiness and of being confortable at the coast,

any coast. That must be "place attachment". I can't help feeling

upset when I see trash on any beach, people not appreciating

or acting as stewards of the place I love. Guess that's a self-

environment interaction. I'm a waterman, surfer, and ocean lover.

That's not simply what I do in my free time, it's who I am.

Maybe I should write a paper for this conference... only if it's

held near the coast though!