Kelly Slater

Just like that it's over

My son Noah has been lifeguarding since he was in high school.

He's now 30 and has a 2 1/2 year old son of his own. On Labor Day

night he wrote a brief note on his facebook page, it read "just like

that it's over". Noah was referring to summer I think but I'm not

sure. Labor Day marked the end of the season and maybe,

after many years, the end of his lifeguarding. Who knows if he'll

be back next year, I kind of doubt it. His post really struck a chord

in me and got me thinking.

We'd just had 3 days of great surf courtesy of Hurricane Earl, days

of building expectation, and by Monday night "just like that it was over".

Hours of all manner of waves, and even a few barrels gone in what

seemed like an instant. The thing about riding a wave or getting tubed

is "just like that it's over". A wave really only lasts but a few seconds

but can stay with you a lifetime.

As I age I have come to realize that "just like that it's over" refers to

almost all aspects of life and even our own lives here during our

"human experience". Life, like surfing a hurricane, doesn't last

forever and can offer many varied opportunities and experiences.

Just remember it goes by quickly so make the most of it because

"just like that it's over".

Danielle dissappoints

For all last week folks were buzzing with anticipation.

All the models were predicting that Hurricane Danielle

was going to produce overhead surf for the weekend and

that the weather was supposed to be sunny and warm with

offshore breezes. It looked, for all intensive purposes, like a

perfect setup.

Saturday morning as the sun rose parking lots were filled

with surfers checking their local breaks. Cars piled high

with surfboards were cruising in every which direction. The

local early morning news reporters and weathermen and women

were warning beach goers about deadly rip tides and high surf.

The surf forecasting web sites had charts with waves in the

overhead range. The feelings of anticipation filled the air.

Apparently no one told the ocean about all the buzz. First light

revealed barely a waist high wave. Surfers on cell phones, surfers

checking their i phones and and blackberries were frantically

calling and checking with friends. Where were the waves? Someone

said it's bigger down south "just got a call from the inlet and it's

chest high". Another group commented that NY might be bigger

while yet another decided to head for the barrier islands. Surprise,

frustration and something akin to shock filled the air replacing the

anticipation of first light. Crowds were scattering.

As the day wore on the disappointment deepened. A few places

had a chest high long period ground swell that closed out or dumped

without much chance of a wall to work. Other spots around groins

and jetties had small waist high waves with workable sections. The

beaches filled up as the sun shone and temperatures rose. Most beaches

didn't have the predicted rip tides. News reporters looked a bit silly

as the live shots revealed small surf and lots of people enjoying the

ocean. Sure there were a few spots with rips but no mass calamity.

How often do you spend lots of energy worrying or anticipating

something in your future? How often does it meet the expectation?

Sure it's fun to speculate and make some plans but... Sometimes it's

good just to look out the window, see what's going on and live the

day as it unfolds.

The speculation and anticipation about our next storm Hurricane Earl

is beginning. Trips to Rhode Island, Block Island, and points north

are being considered. Who knows? Guess I'll wait and see what comes,

keeping my anticipation somewhat in check, not counting my chickens.

Not a bad way to live.

What we take for granted

Best Day Foundation, Life Rolls On, Surfer's Healing, Parents

of Children with Autism, all are wonderful organizations that

provide kids and families with something we take for granted...

a day at the beach, a chance to ride a few waves, and the joys

associated with everything about surfing.

All too often we take things for granted and don't focus on just

how lucky and blessed we are. How often do you find yourself

stressing over something that, in the big picture, is stupid and

quite unimportant. All you need to do is volunteer to help out

at any organization that gives kids and families less fortunate

a chance to experience what we all love.

Do yourself a favor. Give of yourself, give something back for

the blessings that have been bestowed on you. You are not here

on earth to simply ride as many waves as you can. You have been

given a gift, the ability to be healthy and to enjoy all that the ocean

has to offer. Use your gift wisely. Share what you love you'll be

amazed how good it can make you feel. You'll find that it helps

put things in perspective, helps you focus on what you have not

what you don't have.

40 Something Surf Girl update

It's been a while since I wrote about the 40 something surf

girls. They are still at it and still as stoked as ever! The warm

water and little waves of summer seem to heighten their

enthusiasm and appreciation. It's fun to see just how much

they have improved in the past year or so. It's curious to see

just how dialed in they have become to the little things like

tides, winds, swell direction, the joys of a dawn patrol or

an evening glass off.

Being dialed in to the little beautiful and subtle things in life

make for a greater sense of peace and calm. The surfing life

allows the opportunity to take it all in. See the ocean and beach

from a different perspective. The surf girls are gaining that

perspective. They seem to be making the transition from

stoked surf groms to surfers. Their focus has become larger.

It's no longer just about balancing on the board or trying to

catch a wave. It's now become more abuot taking it all in.

Take time in your life to take it all in. Notice the wind, the

clouds, the tides. Appreciate the joys of life and relish in the

great sessions as they happen. A friend wrote on his facebook

page today, "life is short, enjoy it because when you are dead

you're dead for a long time"!

No telling what you'll find at the beach

There's no telling what you'll find at the beach if you

just look around. The beach can be filled with treasures

and it can seem filled with trash. As we edge further and

further into summer seems there are more and more people

on the beach. Some of them are looking, some seeking, others

making demands. The level of enjoyment and discovery seems

to me directly related to they way you look and what you are

looking to find.

My dog Happy and I spend lots of time at the beach almost

every day. Lately he's been finding new dogs to engage with,

new smells to smell, new toys to steal or should I say borrow

play with and bury. I'm finding new people each with a somewhat

outlook, a different expectation. "Get your dog away from my

dog's ball" one owner said to my friend Tim as his puppy jumped

into the ocean after the ball he'd thrown for his dog to fetch. " Your

dog is barking" another owner told Roy. Yet another owner finds

tons of pictures to take of all the dogs and owners as she sits and

watches.

There are many more beachcombers these days. All looking for

something. There are walkers seeking peace, people sitting

on the jetties just taking in the scene, others take great joy in showing

kids the treasures they can find like sand crabs, shells, rocks, feathers,

the banner plane flying overhead, the playful dolphins passing by.

It's just like life. What are you looking to find the garbage on the

beach or the treasures. No telling what you'll find. Guess it depends

on what you are looking for.

Lessons from the Ocean

I saw a great bumper sticker the other day. It read

"Everything I needed to learn I learned from the Ocean".

I love that it got me thinking and pushed me to try to

better understand what lessons I'd learned and if they

were actually sufficient. Here are just a few that I've come

with. I'd love to hear your thoughts on what you've learned.

1) Be curious, look around, and take it all in. The ocean holds

so much if we just look. It can tell you the wind direction, the

swell direction, the tide. It can show you where it is safe to be

and where danger lurks. You can see fish, birds, and amazing

colors and hews.

2) Things change constantly. The ocean is never the same and

it can change in an instant. I'm sure you can attest to that. How

often have you missed a great surf session because the wind switched

or the tide changed. How many time have you seen tranquility turn

into stormy chaos?

3) We are pretty insignificant in the big picture. The vastness of

the ocean can humble even the biggest ego-maniacal narcissist. Oft

times even the problems we feel are great aren't really very large

in the big picture.

4) You can't control the ocean all you can control is you in the ocean

if you learn how and try hard. You have to learn to go with the flow,

let the current take you and not waste energy fighting against the

things you can't win against. Learning to relax and go with it is a key

life lesson.

5) You have to respect the ocean you can't dump on it or in it without

some adverse consequences. The Gulf oil catastrophe is teaching that

to us as I write as are the 5 gyres. What we do is having an impact now.

6) The ocean can be a source of the greatest pleasure and the can also

be a source of pain and sorrow.

I'm sure that I've only scratched the surface, no pun intended. What

lessons has our mother ocean taught you?