Something struck me the other morning as I sat
in the lineup, staring out into the rising sun, appreciating
the colors, looking for an oncoming wave to ride.
We spend an inordinate amount of our lives watching and
waiting, doing nothing but looking seaward hoping for the next
set or wave. We wait more than we actually ride waves. We
wait and watch for minutes, we ride waves for seconds.
Our habit, or some might call it our addiction, has us staring at
the ocean regularly. Checking the surf, watching, taking it
all in for. In a surfers lifetime if you totaled up the time it's
clearly days maybe even months worth of time.
We are simultaneously looking for something and simply
taking in and appreciating all we see.
Waves, birds, wind, swell size, swell direction, fish, boats
are all within our view. We ponder, meditate, breathe, and relax.
Not a bad lesson about living our lives. Watch, enjoy, take it
all in, appreciate the beauty of what we see. Sure sometimes we
are disappointed, wishing we'd see something different, hoping for
better surf, less wind, a different swell. The lesson is clear. Today
these conditions, this ocean, the present is what we have.
Enjoy and make the best of it. A few days ago I saw whales, dolphins
and even waves.