day! I have written before about how I love Monday mornings
especially when the sky is clear, the is wind offshore, and there
is a decent swell. Today was one of those days. The September
sky was crystal clear. The air had a tiny nip in it and the water
was warmer than the air. The hollow waves were and in the chest
high range racing down the sand bar. A large pod of dolphins
swam by making the mood in the lineup peaceful, joyous, content.
Dolphins seem to do that.
This morning I decided to ride my 7'4" egg. That board amazes me.
I never would have bought it but every time I ride it I have a great
session. I got the board as a payment for a debt someone owed me.
My gain for sure. Interesting how things happen.
I surfed for about 4 hours before the wind went hard south. I felt
bad for the crew that had just paddled out. Funny how that sometimes
happens, just as you paddle out the wind switches. Life works that
way periodically. By 4 pm the ocean didn't even look like the same
ocean. Five hours of hard wind will do that. On the bright side, the
strong wind should make tomorrow morning fun.
Funny how things are.