the 40 something surf girls would go and yesterday one
of them did. Perfect small waves, sunny skies, a mild
December day, and a first brand new board how could
they resist. One went, the other almost got in a fight with
her boss trying to get out of work to catch the mid-day
incoming tide. One is stoked beyond belief, the other
still waiting, board yet to be waxed, yet to get wet. The
clock continues to tick. It's a long time before spring.
Surfing and the overall stoke that it can create is amazing.
Sharing the stoke and watching it grow in someone who'd
never expected to get bitten by the surf bug is a joyous experience.
Today on our morning beach walk all she could do was talk about
her first session on her very own board. Everything, from how
"cool" it is that wetsuits actually work to how stable and light
the new board is, was described in detail. Highlights of waves
came to life. The experience of just how clear and clean the
water was relived. It's almost as if we are following some primal
surfer instinct, something in surfer DNA that demands we "talk
story", talk about waves, experiences, joys. It's as if those sessions
are imprinted in our brains permitting us to re-live them, to feel
them and carry them with us. What a blessing.
One went - will the other go? Eddie would go!