Been a tough weekend for me and thankfully I've been able to surf.
The waves were fun, the water and air not that cold yet. I'm
so grateful for the ocean, waves, and what it does to and for me.
I hope you have had a chance to read Wallace J. Nichols great book
The Blue Mind. It's a book about what water, (the ocean for me), does
to our brains, to our psyche's. Pretty interesting to read about the science
that altered my brain as I arced across a decent section of a chest high wave,
riding the twinzer that has become my newest favorite board. I felt non
of the stress, sadness, and sorrow that has made the past few days tough
for me. My mind and soul were happy for the time I spent in the ocean,
waiting, checking the horizon, watching and judging the waves as they
approached, and my spirit was joyous as I put my board through it's
Last night I needed to clear my head. At 11pm I walked to the ocean.
It was dark, the wind was blowing, the surf was pounding and a few
fisherman were oiut on the jetty hoping for some stripers. They too
seemed to be pleased enough just being there. Being in, on, and near
the ocean. Hearing the sounds, smelling the smells, feeling the spray,
appreciating the wonderous healing, calming nature of the ocean.
Some sessions we need more then others. Give thanks for the ocean and
what it can do for you.