Saturday, January 21, 2012

Why do we keep doing it?

Had an interesting conversation while surfing the other day.
A guy I haven't seen in years paddled over to me and recognized
me. Like me, he has been surfing a long long time. In fact, when
he asked me how long I've been surfing, for the first time ever I
said 50 years. Oh my God 50 years! There is absolutely nothing
else in my life I can say I've been doing 50 years and still feel
stoked to do.

What is it about surfing that keeps us so obsessed? My friend and
I tried to exchange theories. Perhaps it's the absolute "in the moment"
nature of riding a wave. No past, no future, no thoughts about chores,
no anxieties about the future, no regrets about the past. It's totally
about surfing that wave at that moment. Maybe it's the beauty we
get to see sitting in the ocean, tuned in to nature and the cycles of the planet?
Perhaps it's the peace we get from surfing. How often have you felt
lousy or been in a foul mood than gone for a surf and come out feeling better?
Mind, body, spirit, all ties together.

To non surfers it must look pretty repetitive. Ride a wave, paddle back,
catch a wave and repeat over and over again. Yet even non surfers seem
to love watching.

A perfectly lined up set wave approached and our conversation ended.

Monday, January 9, 2012

Cycles and Lessons

It might seem odd to state the obvious, life goes on. Each day
the sun comes up, the tide changes, and the sun goes down. We
all know that we'll have periods of surf and flat spells, good offshore
winds and winds that aren't cooperative. We'll surf small waves as
well as big waves. Unless you live in a tropical place the water
temperature will go up and down. That's just the way it is and will
always be.

What can we learn from the cycles of our lives as surfers? Are you open
to looking? Everything changes. Some changes are good, and some bad,
for nothing stays the same. We often go through our surf lives with the
support of the same people. How long have you surfed with the same
crew? How many waves have you shared? How many swells have
you experienced together? How many life events have you all experienced

As you begin 2012, another year, take a moment to appreciate the cycles.
Relish the friendships. Learn the lessons. A noted wise man once said that
there are 2 things we can use the past for; to learn lessons, and remember
the good things. Let that guide you as you surf the waves of another year.
Stay healthy, happy, and at peace.