A guy I haven't seen in years paddled over to me and recognized
me. Like me, he has been surfing a long long time. In fact, when
he asked me how long I've been surfing, for the first time ever I
said 50 years. Oh my God 50 years! There is absolutely nothing
else in my life I can say I've been doing 50 years and still feel
stoked to do.
What is it about surfing that keeps us so obsessed? My friend and
I tried to exchange theories. Perhaps it's the absolute "in the moment"
nature of riding a wave. No past, no future, no thoughts about chores,
no anxieties about the future, no regrets about the past. It's totally
about surfing that wave at that moment. Maybe it's the beauty we
get to see sitting in the ocean, tuned in to nature and the cycles of the planet?
Perhaps it's the peace we get from surfing. How often have you felt
lousy or been in a foul mood than gone for a surf and come out feeling better?
Mind, body, spirit, all ties together.
To non surfers it must look pretty repetitive. Ride a wave, paddle back,
catch a wave and repeat over and over again. Yet even non surfers seem
to love watching.
A perfectly lined up set wave approached and our conversation ended.