head high and even though thewind wasn't offshore it was
not a factor at all. The swell direction wasn't perfect but that too
wasn't a big deal. I was lucky enough to surf twice before having
to go to my office. What a joy! I rode 2 entirely different boards
today each with it's own spirit, it's own mood and flow.
My dawn patrol pick was a 5'9" Larry Mabile twin fin with
beautiful wooden keels. That board is really quick and riding
it has a curious influence on how I surf. I seem to make arcing
swooping turns, I coil at the bottom of waves and glide smoothly
off the top. It's kind of a speedy "go with the flow"gliding type
For my second session I decided to ride my 6'8" Malwitz
widowmaker. It has two sidebites and a 6 inch Skip Frye
center fin. The shape, as a friend who saw me waking from
car commented, was 70's style with updates. Totally different from
my early morning fish. Obviously I had to alter my mindset and style.
My turns were different as was the speed. No coiling on the
Great diversity provided me with great pleasure. Perhaps the
same can be said for our life experiences and friendships. How
often do you step out of your comfort zone? How frequently
do you push yourself to try something totally different? Do
you surround yourself with people who look, think, or act the same?
Might not be a strategy that provides you with the greatest fulfillment.
There is great pleasure from diversity.