women have become enthralled with surfing. I've known
both these women for years. We walk our dogs together on
the beach almost every day. About 3 months ago they both
commented about how surfing and stand up paddleboarding
looked fun. As the weather and water warmed so did their
About a month ago they rented an SUP and took it in the ocean
on a warm flat day. It was harder than they'd expected but it did
not diminish their desire or interest. They approached a neighbor
who they knew has surfed for years. Would he be willing to teach
them to surf? Of course they had no idea that their teacher
was quite an icon. He'd lived in Hawaii at V land, was amongst
the folks who named Freddieland, roomed with Billy Hamilton
and Phil Irons and locally was called Pipey for his ability to
tube ride. But to him teaching these 40 something moms
sounded like a fun thing to do.
Today I watched as he pushed them into tiny waves. The smiles
on everyone's faces were infectious. I doubt if he smiled that much
in Hawaii back in the day. I know they will all be back tomorrow.
Research on aging suggests that we all should take up something
new as we age. Learn to do something we've never done. Creating
new neural pathways through the brain helps keep our brains
and our minds alive and sharp. Don't just sit back as you age. Feel
the joy of being a novice. Learn something new!