Wednesday, December 15, 2010

When is it too cold?

The surf here in NJ was as good as it gets this past Monday.
Waves were overhead, the wind was offshore, and despite the
relative cold (air in the mid 30's) those of us who surfed won't
be soon forgetting the day. How can you forget big, spitting
barrels with relatively empty line-ups?

Unfortunately an "arctic blast" has taken over much of the
eastern half of the country. Here in NJ by Tuesday we had
temperatures in the 20's with wind chills in the single digits.
Tuesday's surf wasn't bad at all, stomach high with offshore
winds. A few hard core souls were out braving the frigid wind chills.
The ocean temperature isn't horrible (upper 40's) but single
digit wind chills? Too cold for me. Maybe it's that I just returned
from almost 3 weeks in Puerto Rico and am going back in a month
or so. Maybe it's my advancing age? Maybe it's wisdom? Who
really knows. All I know is that it's too cold for me.

I have gotten to the place in my life where I know what I will
and will not do, what is acceptable and not acceptable.
I've become much more mindful and that's not a bad thing. Are you
doing what you want? Can you determine when it's too cold or when
something doesn't fit into your life's plan? Knowing is a great thing
in that it can guide your actions and help you get what you want in your life.

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Same Ocean Different Place

Just a few days ago I woke up, put on my board shorts,
t-shirt, and flip flops and casually set out to check the
waves. Along the way I met up with a few friends who
were engaged in exactly the same activity. We moved slowly,
drinking our coffee and sharing conversation. The air warmed
as the sun rose brightening up the lush tropical morning.

This week I wake up in a somewhat different state. The
comforter that has kept me warm all night seems like
a weight to be removed. I labor to put on the layers of capliene,
fleece, and down. The coffee needs to be hotter and my motivation
to go outside seems low. It's below 30 degrees and the wind
is blowing. Checking the waves isn't a leisurely experience. My
dog runs along the beach looking for other dogs to play with. They
are few and far between this time of year.

Hard to believe it's the same ocean, the same surf check.

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Accomplishing your dreams

A few people I know are always amazed that a few
of my best friends and I rarely miss a swell. How do you manage
that they often ask? How is it that while we are at work
you are surfing or traveling? Arranging your life so you can
surf regularly is no different than working at a job you love or
living the life you'd hoped for.

Maria Brophy, the wife of renown surf artist Drew Brophy, writes
a great blog aimed at helping artists. Sometimes Maria's advice
is more about life than art. That was certainly true of today's entry
entitled "Breaking Through to the Other Side". In her post Maria
chronicles her breaking through from a job "slaving in the insurance
industry earning six figures pushing an intangible product" to "living
my dream life doing what I love". You can read her blog at

What do you want for your life? What waves do you want to surf?
Are you stuck where you are now feeling disheartened, dissatisfied,
distressed or even depressed? How can you get "Unstuck" (Dr.
James Gordon's great guide to overcoming depression)? Maria, Dr.
Gordon, and all who have arranged to organize their lives so they
can catch every swell or travel understand that all that is necessary
is to identify where you want be, take the smallest first steps in that
direction, pursue that goal with patience and passion, and don't let
fear get in your way.

Create a life where you are surfing the waves you'd like not one
where you settle for less.

Saturday, November 6, 2010

10 time World Champion

For the past month all that has been posted on this blog
has been a title 'Kelly Slater". Today in Puerto Rico
Kelly accomplished a feat unrivaled in all of sport. He
won a 10th World Title. No athlete in any other
sport has accomplished anything even close. Who has
dominated their sport for 2 decades? Who in any sport
can claim 10 World Titles and 45 first place tour victories?

The man from Florida has won victories in small waves and
in giant waves. He's won at beach breaks, reef breaks and point
breaks. This year he beat professionals who weren't even born
when he won his first title. His accomplishments are astounding.
His ability to, not only, win but to adapt to changing styles and
judging criteria is nothing short of staggering and inspiring. Adapting
to the changes in our world and in our lives is a trait we all need to

As awe inspiring and magnificent as his accomplishment is it is
also ironic that, as I write, not a single main stream sports or news
outlet has even made mention of Slater or his accomplishment.
Odd isn't it?

There are many many lessons today's victory has for those who
look for them. Commitment, drive, the ability to adapt, and the passion
to do something you love can help us all excel as we surf the waves of
life. Congrats to one of the greatest athletes ever in all of sport.

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Just like that it's over

My son Noah has been lifeguarding since he was in high school.
He's now 30 and has a 2 1/2 year old son of his own. On Labor Day
night he wrote a brief note on his facebook page, it read "just like
that it's over". Noah was referring to summer I think but I'm not
sure. Labor Day marked the end of the season and maybe,
after many years, the end of his lifeguarding. Who knows if he'll
be back next year, I kind of doubt it. His post really struck a chord
in me and got me thinking.

We'd just had 3 days of great surf courtesy of Hurricane Earl, days
of building expectation, and by Monday night "just like that it was over".
Hours of all manner of waves, and even a few barrels gone in what
seemed like an instant. The thing about riding a wave or getting tubed
is "just like that it's over". A wave really only lasts but a few seconds
but can stay with you a lifetime.

As I age I have come to realize that "just like that it's over" refers to
almost all aspects of life and even our own lives here during our
"human experience". Life, like surfing a hurricane, doesn't last
forever and can offer many varied opportunities and experiences.
Just remember it goes by quickly so make the most of it because
"just like that it's over".

Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Danielle dissappoints

For all last week folks were buzzing with anticipation.
All the models were predicting that Hurricane Danielle
was going to produce overhead surf for the weekend and
that the weather was supposed to be sunny and warm with
offshore breezes. It looked, for all intensive purposes, like a
perfect setup.

Saturday morning as the sun rose parking lots were filled
with surfers checking their local breaks. Cars piled high
with surfboards were cruising in every which direction. The
local early morning news reporters and weathermen and women
were warning beach goers about deadly rip tides and high surf.
The surf forecasting web sites had charts with waves in the
overhead range. The feelings of anticipation filled the air.

Apparently no one told the ocean about all the buzz. First light
revealed barely a waist high wave. Surfers on cell phones, surfers
checking their i phones and and blackberries were frantically
calling and checking with friends. Where were the waves? Someone
said it's bigger down south "just got a call from the inlet and it's
chest high". Another group commented that NY might be bigger
while yet another decided to head for the barrier islands. Surprise,
frustration and something akin to shock filled the air replacing the
anticipation of first light. Crowds were scattering.

As the day wore on the disappointment deepened. A few places
had a chest high long period ground swell that closed out or dumped
without much chance of a wall to work. Other spots around groins
and jetties had small waist high waves with workable sections. The
beaches filled up as the sun shone and temperatures rose. Most beaches
didn't have the predicted rip tides. News reporters looked a bit silly
as the live shots revealed small surf and lots of people enjoying the
ocean. Sure there were a few spots with rips but no mass calamity.

How often do you spend lots of energy worrying or anticipating
something in your future? How often does it meet the expectation?
Sure it's fun to speculate and make some plans but... Sometimes it's
good just to look out the window, see what's going on and live the
day as it unfolds.

The speculation and anticipation about our next storm Hurricane Earl
is beginning. Trips to Rhode Island, Block Island, and points north
are being considered. Who knows? Guess I'll wait and see what comes,
keeping my anticipation somewhat in check, not counting my chickens.
Not a bad way to live.

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

What we take for granted

Best Day Foundation, Life Rolls On, Surfer's Healing, Parents
of Children with Autism, all are wonderful organizations that
provide kids and families with something we take for granted...
a day at the beach, a chance to ride a few waves, and the joys
associated with everything about surfing.

All too often we take things for granted and don't focus on just
how lucky and blessed we are. How often do you find yourself
stressing over something that, in the big picture, is stupid and
quite unimportant. All you need to do is volunteer to help out
at any organization that gives kids and families less fortunate
a chance to experience what we all love.

Do yourself a favor. Give of yourself, give something back for
the blessings that have been bestowed on you. You are not here
on earth to simply ride as many waves as you can. You have been
given a gift, the ability to be healthy and to enjoy all that the ocean
has to offer. Use your gift wisely. Share what you love you'll be
amazed how good it can make you feel. You'll find that it helps
put things in perspective, helps you focus on what you have not
what you don't have.

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

40 Something Surf Girl update

It's been a while since I wrote about the 40 something surf
girls. They are still at it and still as stoked as ever! The warm
water and little waves of summer seem to heighten their
enthusiasm and appreciation. It's fun to see just how much
they have improved in the past year or so. It's curious to see
just how dialed in they have become to the little things like
tides, winds, swell direction, the joys of a dawn patrol or
an evening glass off.

Being dialed in to the little beautiful and subtle things in life
make for a greater sense of peace and calm. The surfing life
allows the opportunity to take it all in. See the ocean and beach
from a different perspective. The surf girls are gaining that
perspective. They seem to be making the transition from
stoked surf groms to surfers. Their focus has become larger.
It's no longer just about balancing on the board or trying to
catch a wave. It's now become more abuot taking it all in.

Take time in your life to take it all in. Notice the wind, the
clouds, the tides. Appreciate the joys of life and relish in the
great sessions as they happen. A friend wrote on his facebook
page today, "life is short, enjoy it because when you are dead
you're dead for a long time"!

Thursday, July 8, 2010

No telling what you'll find at the beach

There's no telling what you'll find at the beach if you
just look around. The beach can be filled with treasures
and it can seem filled with trash. As we edge further and
further into summer seems there are more and more people
on the beach. Some of them are looking, some seeking, others
making demands. The level of enjoyment and discovery seems
to me directly related to they way you look and what you are
looking to find.

My dog Happy and I spend lots of time at the beach almost
every day. Lately he's been finding new dogs to engage with,
new smells to smell, new toys to steal or should I say borrow
play with and bury. I'm finding new people each with a somewhat
outlook, a different expectation. "Get your dog away from my
dog's ball" one owner said to my friend Tim as his puppy jumped
into the ocean after the ball he'd thrown for his dog to fetch. " Your
dog is barking" another owner told Roy. Yet another owner finds
tons of pictures to take of all the dogs and owners as she sits and

There are many more beachcombers these days. All looking for
something. There are walkers seeking peace, people sitting
on the jetties just taking in the scene, others take great joy in showing
kids the treasures they can find like sand crabs, shells, rocks, feathers,
the banner plane flying overhead, the playful dolphins passing by.

It's just like life. What are you looking to find the garbage on the
beach or the treasures. No telling what you'll find. Guess it depends
on what you are looking for.

Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Lessons from the Ocean

I saw a great bumper sticker the other day. It read
"Everything I needed to learn I learned from the Ocean".
I love that it got me thinking and pushed me to try to
better understand what lessons I'd learned and if they
were actually sufficient. Here are just a few that I've come
with. I'd love to hear your thoughts on what you've learned.

1) Be curious, look around, and take it all in. The ocean holds
so much if we just look. It can tell you the wind direction, the
swell direction, the tide. It can show you where it is safe to be
and where danger lurks. You can see fish, birds, and amazing
colors and hews.

2) Things change constantly. The ocean is never the same and
it can change in an instant. I'm sure you can attest to that. How
often have you missed a great surf session because the wind switched
or the tide changed. How many time have you seen tranquility turn
into stormy chaos?

3) We are pretty insignificant in the big picture. The vastness of
the ocean can humble even the biggest ego-maniacal narcissist. Oft
times even the problems we feel are great aren't really very large
in the big picture.

4) You can't control the ocean all you can control is you in the ocean
if you learn how and try hard. You have to learn to go with the flow,
let the current take you and not waste energy fighting against the
things you can't win against. Learning to relax and go with it is a key
life lesson.

5) You have to respect the ocean you can't dump on it or in it without
some adverse consequences. The Gulf oil catastrophe is teaching that
to us as I write as are the 5 gyres. What we do is having an impact now.

6) The ocean can be a source of the greatest pleasure and the can also
be a source of pain and sorrow.

I'm sure that I've only scratched the surface, no pun intended. What
lessons has our mother ocean taught you?

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Beyond the tipping point

Phillipe Cousteau did a dive into the Gulf of Mexico last week.
Perhaps you have seen it, if not it's on You Tube. So sad to watch
him don a hazmat suit to dive into the oily disaster. So sad to
see what he saw and hear his words. I heard him interviewed
since his dive and he was asked if it was already too late for
our beloved mother ocean. HIs answer was troubling. A man
can survive without an arm, without a leg, with his eye gouged out
but the man will never be the same Cousteau replied. When will
people realize that the ocean will never be the same, never be
healthy he asked?

I too am surprised as to just how many people are not connecting
the dots on the devastation we humans have wrought on the
ocean. The big fish are virtually gone, yet we continue to seek
them out. The list of fish on the unsustainable list grows, yet go
into almost any eatery and look at the seafood portion of the menu.
Gyres filled with plastics ( an oil based product) are in all the worlds
oceans. The stomachs of fish and birds found in even the most remote
places on earth are filled with plastic. Walk any beach on any continent
and you'll see it littered with plastic. Go to virtually every beach snack
bar and ask to buy some kind of drink what you'll get in all likelihood
is a plastic bottle.

The ocean and our unwillingness to look at our behavior is a metaphor
for how many people live their lives. Sure you can survive eating
the wrong food, not exercising, being a workaholic, using your hard
earned dollars to consume for the sake of consuming. You, like the
ocean or the man with one arm, one leg, and one eye can survive. Do
you really want to? Have you, have we gone beyond the tipping point?

Monday, May 10, 2010

One stroke at a time

Roz Savage and Margo Pelligrino are inspiring women.
Both have taken on extraordinary challenges to help bring
attention to the state of the oceans. Both are, I hope, forcing
people to think about what each and every one of us are
doing to play our parts.

Roz Savage quit a career as a business consultant after
realizing that the obituary that would be written about
her wasn't true to who she felt she was. She has now
rowed across the Atlantic Ocean and is presently rowing
across the Pacific Ocean. That's right, rowing across
the Oceans alone. You might want to check out Roz's
talk on

Margo Pellegrino is the mother of 2 young Children. She decided
that she had to teach her kids what is important by example.
She couldn't just talk about the "right things" to do. Margo
has paddled her outrigger canoe from Miami to Maine and from
Florida to New Orleans to bring attention to the state of the
Oceans. This year Margo is going to paddle from Seattle to
San Diego.

Both these heroic women are making a difference one stroke
at a time. Both setting amazing examples and calling us to
task. How can you change your life? How can you change
your habits or your way of thinking? As Roz said so eloquently
"one stroke at a time", that's how you row across an ocean.
That's how you make the changes in your life you'd like to make.

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Surfing makes it better

To take a line from James Brown "I feel good"!
I've been able to surf for the past few mornings.
The waves weren't at all epic, in fact, they were actually
pretty small. To be perfectly honest, I needed my 9'6"
and/or my SUP to even catch waves. On set they were
barely thigh high, but I had a blast and the fun little morning
sessions with my good friends have served to set up my days.

No real surprise that my mood is better and the day goes
by faster when I start it off with a session in the water. I'm
not exactly sure what causes it, what makes the difference.
Perhaps it's those endorphins that make me feel good.
Maybe it's the opportunity to burn off some of those
stress chemicals that makes me feel so content, so happy
and at ease after a surf. Maybe it's being in the ocean and seeing
the beauty all around me. I'm not exactly sure. All I know
is that my life has been kind of stressful for the past few weeks
and I feel better when I surf.

What do you do each day that helps make you feel better,
helps you deal with stress? Surfing sure makes me feel better.

Saturday, May 1, 2010

First hints of summer

It happened today! Every spring it is guaranteed
to happen at some point. Today was a warm, sunny,
summer like day. The kind of day when things just seem
right. Finally, we got a taste of things to come. A taste of summer.

There were people on the beaches in bathing suits sitting
in beach chairs and under beach umbrellas. Despite the
barely knee high surf there were more surfers in the water
than conditions warranted. Today was the day the grooms
went in the ocean wearing poorly fitting 3 mil wet suits without
boots or gloves. Sure they didn't really last too long but they
were surfing. They had fun.

The streets were filled with runners, bike riders and walkers.
First Night in Asbury Park was crowded and people were happy.
A taste of summer. A taste of things to come.

Amazing how a little preview of something good like summer,
can lift the spirits of so many. Knowing that things will get better helps
us all. It's good to know for sure, good to feel it, to actually
experience it.

Know, no matter how cloudy, dark, drab, or down life may seem,
things can get better. Summer does come. It sure is nice
to actually get an early taste to remind us, to keep our spirits
up. Now if we could just get some surf to go along with the
summer weather things might even seem perfect.

Saturday, April 24, 2010

Decisions, decisions, and peace

Sometimes having too many options, too many
decisions to make can be a bad thing. How many
surfers have large quivers with a healthy variety
of surfboards, shapes, and sizes? I know I'm guilty for sure.
I've got almost every kind of board imaginable from a 5'8"
retro fish to a 10'10" SUP with just about everything in between.
I own longboards, shortboards, guns, eggs, single fins, twin fins,
tri fins, and a quad. Got all my bases covered I guess, but
sometimes all it does is confuse me. Sometimes I wish
I didn't have so many choices, so many decisions to make.
It sure was easier when all I had to do was grab my only board
go surf.

Life can seem a lot like picking out a board to ride. To
many choices can lead to too much stress. Narrowing
down the array of options can be a relief, can provide peace.
Recently I've had to make some decisions, I found myself
thinking about and exploring all the options
available. Like many, I asked others for their advice. I heard
lots of ideas, lots of opinions, lots of choices. It
became almost overwhelming. After a bit of time, some meditation
and thought I reached my own decision. I decided what I would
do, which board I'd ride as it were. No more second guessing.
Odd how peaceful it can become when you make a decision, pick
the board you'll ride.

Make your own decision. One that is right for
you. You can second guess forever, wonder if you've chosen the
right path, the right board, or you can mindfully
and thoughtfully pick one, have confidence in it and enjoy
your session. It's your choice.

Tuesday, April 13, 2010


In surfing and in life it's really how you look at
things that matters. What filters do you use that
influence what you see or what you hear. How do
your filters impact the quality of your life, your
relationships, and how you communicate with others?

I listened as a surfer I know talked about a recent
session. "It was good and not at all crowded"
Another surfer who was surfing at the same spot and
at the same time told me "it wasn't really that great, the
wind was blowing hard and it held you up making it tough
to make the drop". Yet another told me "the ramps on the
inside lefts were great for launching airs. I had a blast!"
Three surfers all seeing things from their own unique
perspective, judging the same wave in very different ways.

I hear similar things in my office. Just tonight I worked
with a couple whose big issue revolved around one partner
hearing something through their own filter. What they heard
and ultimately reacted to was not at all what their partner
actually meant or said. They never even thought that
they could have been filtering the message through their
own perspective and not actually hearing what was said
or what was meant.

Do your filters get you in trouble? Confuse the messages?
Dictate your reactions? Try to understand and listen to what
is actually being said not what you think was said or what you
think it meant. Slow down before you react. The same surf,
the same time, 3 different perspectives. Probably happens in your
life alot.

Saturday, April 3, 2010

Lost in Whitewater

Wow, it's been a while since my last update.
Sort of like someone wiping out on a big wave, a Tres
Palms, Mavericks, or Waimea Bay type big wave, and
disappearing in the white water before suddenly popping up.
I've popped back up!

Not quite sure what held me under for so long. I barely even
remember wiping out at all. Guess we all get lost at times.
It's easy to lose our focus, or get too involved in some things without
remembering how important other things are. Maybe that's
it, I lost some focus. I got busy in the office, found myself
focusing on the trivialities on each day, dealing
with what might seem the more important events in one's life, or
maybe it was the joy of surfing in the warm waters of Puerto Rico.
Be that as it may, I got lost or should I say sidetracked. We all do.
The important thing it to pop back up! As long as we pop back up
out of the whitewater after a wipeout we're fine. Even long hold
downs have lessons to teach.

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Flat, cold, and snowy

As I look out my office window I can see the
snow falling... yet again. At least it's putting a fresh
coating on the dirty piles of snow that have yet to
melt from the last 2 major storms. Looking at the
surf forecast for the next week or so here in NJ doesn't
exactly fill me with excitement. It's going to be flat...again.
It's been flat, cold, and snowy for way too long this winter.
Not much joy amongst the local crew.

Seems to me that people are coping with all this in a few
observable ways. Some are putting their heads down and
trudging along, doing what they have to do. They are kind
of stoic, not really complaining. They are just putting one
foot in front of the other and moving along. Than there are
those who accept their fate making the best of what they can't
change. They're heading to the nearby mountains where the
snow and conditions are amazing. Than there are those who seem
to be able to do little but complain. It's almost as if they have
given up, given in to depression. I'm not at all a fan of flat, cold,
or snow but I'm lucky enough to be able to escape.

With winter, like all the other stressors in life, there are really
only 3 things we ever can do to cope - 1) remove the stressor;
2) remove ourselves; or, 3) learn to cope as best we can as to not
let the stressor get to us. Which way are you choosing to cope
with the flat, cold, and snow? Is it working for you?

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

"Legions of the unjazzed"

Phil Edwards was, during the late 1960's, considered the
best surfer in the world. He rode waves with a style and
grace that influenced generations to follow. He also authored
the rare and much coveted book "You Should Have Been Here
An Hour Ago". If you do a little research you might even find
the 1967 Sports Illustrated with Edwards on the cover.

Occasionally we all come across a sentence, a phrase, or even
a song lyric that seems to imprint in our brains and sticks
with us popping up at seemingly unlikely times. For me "The
legions of the unjazzed" is one of those sentences. Edwards
used it to describe " the day-to-day people, the hackers..." who
are taking over... The uncounted millions...who go through life
without any sort of real, vibrant kick". The people I encounter
in my office who draw a blank stare when I ask them what
they are passionate about, what really excites them. No surprise
that these legions often suffer from depression, have lost touch
with the joy of life.

I'm writing this at my house here in Rincon Puerto Rico. I've been
coming to Rincon for decades. It is a place that is, not only
beautiful and has good surf, but is populated by people that
seem to know what excites them, that know what they are passionate
about. Not too many depressed people here.

Find and embrace your passion. If you can't remember what excites
you, by all means, find it!

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Out of touch with nature

As surfers we are the lucky ones. We seem most at home
in nature, in the ocean. We are dialed in to the rhythms of
the natural world - wind, tide, swell, sand. reefs, low pressure systems,
the ocean, and the life that calls the ocean home. It's easy to
forget that others are actually out of touch with nature. Out
of touch with all that is around them.

These past few weeks the Atlantic, here in NJ, has been asleep.
No waves, no real swell to speak of, but to those who take the
time to look there is plenty going on in our natural world.
We've had more seals showing up on the beaches than in
recent memory. Amazing how some people are freaked
out by the idea. Seals on the could that be they ask?

The nor'easters of the fall and early winter have done some
interesting things to our dunes and sandbars. Yesterday I
walked the beach in Seaside Heights, you know the home of
that bizarre MTV show "Jersey Shore". I Actually walked past
the place they lived but not on the boardwalk. I was on the beach
with another surfer checking out the carved out beach, the new
sandbar layout. We were watching as 8 inch waves peeled down
the newly formed sand points. We speculated about what will
happen when we get a swell, how those bars will perform.
Meanwhile behind us, up on the boardwalk people were taking
pictures of the closed t shirt shop and the painted door of the
MTV house. Not exactly nature, not exactly real but I guess
that's their world.

Research tells us that people who spend time in nature are
healthier and less stressed. No real surprise to surfers. Take
the time to connect with the natural world around you. Walk
on the beach, take a hike in the woods, visit a nature preserve.
You'll feel better for it. You will find yourself more connected
yet more at peace. The seals on the beach won't surprise you so
much and you'll be less interested in the fantasy of "reality tv".

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Great days

I'm sure you all have had a really great day in the surf.
A day when everything seemed to come together, where
it's as good as it gets. Doesn't have to be a giant day or
even a perfect day, it's just for you a really great day. It
makes no difference if you have just begun surfing, if
you are Kelly Slater, or some seasoned "old guy", great
days happen to us all.

I had a great day yesterday. Simon my grandson called
me grandpa for the first time! At 22 month he's developed
quite a vocabulary in both Spanish and English. Seems
that every day for the past months he's been letting us know
he's mastered new words, new phrases. What a joy to hear
him say something he's never said before, to watch as he
realizes that others understand him, that he's actually
communicating. The "grandpa thing" was different I think.
I'll bet he's been able to say it for a while now but he's been
playing with me and holding out. He just wasn't ready.
Prior to yesterday when-ever someone asked him who I
was, what my name was he just smiled a coy smile, a knowing
smile. But for whatever reason yesterday was the day.
He decided to say it. My day was made, my joy incredible.
Such a little thing meant so much.

What little things mean a lot to you? Do you seek them
out, nurture them? Whether it's having a great session,
making a personal change, connecting with a friend, or simply
living with the aloha spirit, great days can come from
little things. Make it a great day in and out of the surf.