Tuesday, July 20, 2010

40 Something Surf Girl update

It's been a while since I wrote about the 40 something surf
girls. They are still at it and still as stoked as ever! The warm
water and little waves of summer seem to heighten their
enthusiasm and appreciation. It's fun to see just how much
they have improved in the past year or so. It's curious to see
just how dialed in they have become to the little things like
tides, winds, swell direction, the joys of a dawn patrol or
an evening glass off.

Being dialed in to the little beautiful and subtle things in life
make for a greater sense of peace and calm. The surfing life
allows the opportunity to take it all in. See the ocean and beach
from a different perspective. The surf girls are gaining that
perspective. They seem to be making the transition from
stoked surf groms to surfers. Their focus has become larger.
It's no longer just about balancing on the board or trying to
catch a wave. It's now become more abuot taking it all in.

Take time in your life to take it all in. Notice the wind, the
clouds, the tides. Appreciate the joys of life and relish in the
great sessions as they happen. A friend wrote on his facebook
page today, "life is short, enjoy it because when you are dead
you're dead for a long time"!

Thursday, July 8, 2010

No telling what you'll find at the beach

There's no telling what you'll find at the beach if you
just look around. The beach can be filled with treasures
and it can seem filled with trash. As we edge further and
further into summer seems there are more and more people
on the beach. Some of them are looking, some seeking, others
making demands. The level of enjoyment and discovery seems
to me directly related to they way you look and what you are
looking to find.

My dog Happy and I spend lots of time at the beach almost
every day. Lately he's been finding new dogs to engage with,
new smells to smell, new toys to steal or should I say borrow
play with and bury. I'm finding new people each with a somewhat
outlook, a different expectation. "Get your dog away from my
dog's ball" one owner said to my friend Tim as his puppy jumped
into the ocean after the ball he'd thrown for his dog to fetch. " Your
dog is barking" another owner told Roy. Yet another owner finds
tons of pictures to take of all the dogs and owners as she sits and

There are many more beachcombers these days. All looking for
something. There are walkers seeking peace, people sitting
on the jetties just taking in the scene, others take great joy in showing
kids the treasures they can find like sand crabs, shells, rocks, feathers,
the banner plane flying overhead, the playful dolphins passing by.

It's just like life. What are you looking to find the garbage on the
beach or the treasures. No telling what you'll find. Guess it depends
on what you are looking for.