Tuesday, May 31, 2011

The rules

Summer is upon us. The water is quickly warming up.
The beaches are "officially" open and, as a friend says,
the eggs have hatched and all newbies are scurrying about
everywhere. This is especially true in the lineup.

Yesterday I got to watch the same scene play out over
and over again. Inexperienced wanna be surfers haphazardly
paddling to the peak without a clue, endangering themselves
and others. When someone nicely tries to direct them
away from the main peak, down the beach, where beginners
belong, a nasty exchange takes place. Why is it that these
folks without a clue get angry when someone tries to teach
them the rules? What happened to the idea that if you don't
really know the rules perhaps you should timidly sit on the
sidelines for a bit and learn them before you head into the

Knowing the rules doesn't only pertain to surfing. We'd
all be much safer and happier if we took the time to observe
how things work before haphazardly or impulsively charging
ahead without knowing the obstacles. We all can benefit from
learning a bit, taking the advice of "experts", and listening
to wisdom gained over the years. Don't be a kook in the surf
or in life. Take the time to learn the rules. You'll be happier,
safer, and healthier for sure.

Sunday, May 8, 2011

Waves per Lifetime

It's rare that you get to surf fun A frames, with
oil slick glassy conditions, in the rain, alone. I had
that opportunity just the other day. On those rare
occasions when I surf alone I find it quite meditative.
As anyone who meditates on a regular basis knows
sometimes you become aware of interesting thoughts.

My thoughts on that day seemed focused on the concept
of "Waves per Lifetime" (WPL). Just how many waves
does one ride during their lifetime. Each wave is but a
brief few seconds. Each session is made up of a finite
number of waves. Each year consists of a finite number
of sessions and your surfing life probably has a finite number
of years.

I actually have no real interest trying to calculate the
number of waves I've ridden in the 48 or so years I've been
surfing. I know it's been quite a few. Some have been
really special and stand out in my mind while others seem
to be lost somewhere in my brain. Much of our lives go
by in the same way I guess, some moments very special
while others rather ordinary and seemingly easy to forget.
Our challenge both in and out of the water, is to value all
our moments, all our sessions. We can't forget just how
blessed we all are simply to have them. Enjoy...

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Yea but the surf was good

Saturday we had some pretty fun leftover surf here in NJ.
Unfortunately there were many many more people surfing
than there were taking part in the semi-annual beach clean up.
Why was that?? Not quite sure I fully understand why so many
surfers don't take the time to take part in, or regularly on there
own pick up trash from the beach.

It's amazing how much surf related trash we regularly find when
we do beach clean-ups. On Saturday alone I found 1/2 a surfboard
that someone had broken the day before; a leash that had snapped;
wax; towels that someone had left covered in sand; empty plastic
bottles. Now maybe all that stuff wasn't from surfers but alot
was for sure.

Why aren't we, as surfers, leading the way in the effort to keep our
beaches clean? Why can the lineup have 25 to 30 people in it and
the beach clean up crew only have 5 or so? Kudos to the few surfers
who did help. As to the rest...apathy will destroy the ocean, beaches,
waves we all love so dearly.