warm sunny spring day. April here in NJ isn't
always like that it is generally chillier than we'd like,
grayer than we'd hope, and wetter than we want.
This year has been no exception as
we really have had our share of chilly April showers.
Not today, today we've got sun, warmth and waves
On my way to the line-up I passed a friend of mine,
a chiropractor by profession. We greeted each other
with a smile and a knowing nod. Robert (the chiropractor)
had posted a simple message on his facebook page a few
days ago. The post was headed something like 3 simple rules for
living. The rules were; 1) breathe in, 2) breathe out, 3) repeat.
It reminded me of a Jimmy Buffet lyric "Breathe in,
breathe out, move on".
As our session went on I kept thinking about those simple
rules and realized a few more. Surfing does make you think
sometimes. A simple rule of surfing is stay in the moment and
go with what the wave gives you. Today, with the swell angle not
being ideal, that rule was key. Sometimes the lefts would wedge
up and you could find a tight little barrel. At other times there was
a fun right with a nice little bowl. Every once in a while a
lined up right wall would appear. We had fun with them all.
Taking what mother ocean gave us.
I paddled in recalling another simple rule, be grateful for what
you have. I left the beach with a smile on my face and a song in
my head, "Breathe in, Breathe out, Move on". Thanks Jimmy,
thanks Robert for the reminder.