We've all been there…watching the surf pump,
searching for a channel or easy way to get to
out. We watch and wait only to realize
that there will be no easy path to pleasure today.
If we want to get the sheer joy of those perfect
overhead waves there is little we can do but to
jump in paddle.
Sometime the paddle out is easy, we get a break.
Other times it's unrelenting, almost a strange torture.
Wave after wave march towards us as we make our
way. If you are on a short board it's duck dive after
duck dive. Those on longboards seem to have an even
harder time. The paddle seems endless. It feels like
the ocean doesn't want to let you get there. Will you
ever make it out to the lineup?
A break is coming...
You paddle and paddle, mustering every ounce of
strength and energy you've got. This time you'll
make it out. Your determination builds as you watch
those who have been lucky enough to
make it beyond the never ending line of white water
feel the joy of riding waves. You imagine the feeling.
Sometimes life feels like a long difficult paddle. The
struggle seems almost too hard but you persevere and
just keep paddling. You know exactly
the sheer joy of the wave… the sheer joy of the ride,
the joy of life.
Sometimes it's not easy, we just have to hang in there
and keep paddling.