a while. The wind was strong, about 25 mph
sustained, blowing offshore. The swell was in
the chest to head high range and there was no
shortage of wedging peaks and decent barrels.
Even in a 5 mil wetsuit it was a 2 session day.
Today the wind backed off a bit, the sun was bright
and the sky a clear blue. A beautiful spring day but
the swell was gone. Ankle to knee high peeling waves
greeted us this morning and kept me thinking about
what a difference a day can make. Here yesterday, gone
today. I'm stoked I got to enjoy the day yesterday, to
take advantage of the moment(s) while they lasted.
Life is certainly like our waves. What a difference a
day, an hour, a few seconds can make. So much in
our lives are like the oceans waves, here today and
gone tomorrow. A good job one day, gone the next.
A pile of assets one day, gone the next (or for many, what
seems like the next). Many things seem as if they are
here today gone tomorrow. So what do you learn from
this basic reality? Yesterday I surfed, today I relished
the time I spent with friends and family. I know that
in life as in surfing things change quickly.