Why do we keep doing it?

Had an interesting conversation while surfing the other day.

A guy I haven't seen in years paddled over to me and recognized

me. Like me, he has been surfing a long long time. In fact, when

he asked me how long I've been surfing, for the first time ever I

said 50 years. Oh my God 50 years! There is absolutely nothing

else in my life I can say I've been doing 50 years and still feel

stoked to do.

What is it about surfing that keeps us so obsessed? My friend and

I tried to exchange theories. Perhaps it's the absolute "in the moment"

nature of riding a wave. No past, no future, no thoughts about chores,

no anxieties about the future, no regrets about the past. It's totally

about surfing that wave at that moment. Maybe it's the beauty we

get to see sitting in the ocean, tuned in to nature and the cycles of the planet?

Perhaps it's the peace we get from surfing. How often have you felt

lousy or been in a foul mood than gone for a surf and come out feeling better?

Mind, body, spirit, all ties together.

To non surfers it must look pretty repetitive. Ride a wave, paddle back,

catch a wave and repeat over and over again. Yet even non surfers seem

to love watching.

A perfectly lined up set wave approached and our conversation ended.