I've been surfing for over 50 years.
The other morning as I walked my dog
on the beach and was watching and checking
the surf, a stange thought struck me. Surfers
are really an odd group. As I watched the
tiny swell coming out of the south being
groomed by the wind it struck me…
We fashion and live our lives around wind
born energy moving through the ocean so
we can use planks to ride the wave.
We has strong feelings about slabs of
wood, foam, or some other manmade
material. We have intimate feelings for
various shapes and designs…is it long or
short?... round or pointed?…thick or
thin?... what shape do it's edges have?
it's bottom, what curves and contours does
it use? All designed to ride a wind born
We have tried to organize our lives in a
manner that provides us with as many
opportunities to ride these energy waves as
we can.Many of our friendships have been
formed with others who share this odd passion,
almost all-consuming pursuit. Many of
our relationships influenced by it.
We have traveled worldwide in efforts to
simply ride the wave energy in that particular
place. We've dubbed many of these places
as holy places…we've committed to memory
what shape the energy moving through the
Come on..when you think of surfing in
that manner, it is really kind of odd. Wind
born energy moving through the ocean has
been a major influence in my life.