How often do you think or say to yourself
" I need to get in the water...I need to surf"?
As surfers we are so lucky to know the release and relief that
being in the ocean and surf can provide.
Interestingly enough there is a mounting body of
scientific evidence to help explain why that happens.
If you aren't aware of it I'd suggest you get a hold of a copy
Wallace J. Nichols book " BLUE MIND". The surprising
science that shows how being near, in, on, or under water
can make you happier, healthier, more connected and
better at what you do.
I trust or hope you have volunteered to work with those
not as fortunate as we are. There are any number of
groups who take people surfing. I've been lucky enough
to have worked with Veterans with PTSD, TBI and who
have lost limbs. I've volunteered to help children with autism
and other disabilities. I've even helped out in a program that
takes folks with visual impairments.
Did you know there is an International Adaptive Surfing
competition as part of the ISA, Perhaps you can find
out who in your area is involved.
We are so lucky to be surfers and to know the wonderful
mental and emotional results of surfing. Please share the stoke
if you can. Find a group near you, volunteer. It will be therapy
for the participants and for you.
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