girls. They are still at it and still as stoked as ever! The warm
water and little waves of summer seem to heighten their
enthusiasm and appreciation. It's fun to see just how much
they have improved in the past year or so. It's curious to see
just how dialed in they have become to the little things like
tides, winds, swell direction, the joys of a dawn patrol or
an evening glass off.
Being dialed in to the little beautiful and subtle things in life
make for a greater sense of peace and calm. The surfing life
allows the opportunity to take it all in. See the ocean and beach
from a different perspective. The surf girls are gaining that
perspective. They seem to be making the transition from
stoked surf groms to surfers. Their focus has become larger.
It's no longer just about balancing on the board or trying to
catch a wave. It's now become more abuot taking it all in.
Take time in your life to take it all in. Notice the wind, the
clouds, the tides. Appreciate the joys of life and relish in the
great sessions as they happen. A friend wrote on his facebook
page today, "life is short, enjoy it because when you are dead
you're dead for a long time"!