Tuesday, July 20, 2010

40 Something Surf Girl update

It's been a while since I wrote about the 40 something surf
girls. They are still at it and still as stoked as ever! The warm
water and little waves of summer seem to heighten their
enthusiasm and appreciation. It's fun to see just how much
they have improved in the past year or so. It's curious to see
just how dialed in they have become to the little things like
tides, winds, swell direction, the joys of a dawn patrol or
an evening glass off.

Being dialed in to the little beautiful and subtle things in life
make for a greater sense of peace and calm. The surfing life
allows the opportunity to take it all in. See the ocean and beach
from a different perspective. The surf girls are gaining that
perspective. They seem to be making the transition from
stoked surf groms to surfers. Their focus has become larger.
It's no longer just about balancing on the board or trying to
catch a wave. It's now become more abuot taking it all in.

Take time in your life to take it all in. Notice the wind, the
clouds, the tides. Appreciate the joys of life and relish in the
great sessions as they happen. A friend wrote on his facebook
page today, "life is short, enjoy it because when you are dead
you're dead for a long time"!

9 comments:

琬安琬安 said...

與人相處不妨多用眼睛說話,多用嘴巴思考. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

雅俊芬凱陳許 said...

教育無他,愛與榜樣而已............................................................

許惠吟許惠吟 said...

跟您打聲招呼,願我們大家都更好!!..................................................................

劉智柏 said...

做些小善事,說些愛的字句,世界更快樂。..................................................

家唐銘 said...

愛,拆開來是心和受兩個字。用心去接受對方的一切,用心去愛對方的所有。......................................................................

凱許倫 said...

謝謝大大的分享 我會學會反省與寬容 感恩 ∩△∩............................................................

红十字 said...

成熟,就是有能力適應生活中的模糊。............................................................

Kim Hamrock said...

I HAVE BEEN GIVING SURFING LESSONS FOR OVER 17 YEARS NOW AND ONE THIN THAT I FOUND IS THAT WOMEN IN THEIR 40'S ARE THE SECOND FASTEST LEARNING GROUP BESIDES KIDS. I DISCOVERED THIS PRIOR TO BEING 40 AND IN REALLY INSPIRED ME. I STARTED COMPETING AT AGE 30 AFTER HAVING 3 KIDS. I WON MY WORLD TITLE AT AGE 42 AND WAS RUNNER UP FOR THE XXL WOMEN'S DIVISION FOR BIG WAVE RIDING AT AGE 45. NOW I AM GETTING CLOSE TO BEING A WOMEN WHO SURFS IN HER 50'! IT ONLY GETS BETTER!!!

Kim Hamrock said...

I HAVE BEEN GIVING SURFING LESSONS FOR OVER 17 YEARS NOW AND ONE THIN THAT I FOUND IS THAT WOMEN IN THEIR 40'S ARE THE SECOND FASTEST LEARNING GROUP BESIDES KIDS. I DISCOVERED THIS PRIOR TO BEING 40 AND IN REALLY INSPIRED ME. I STARTED COMPETING AT AGE 30 AFTER HAVING 3 KIDS. I WON MY WORLD TITLE AT AGE 42 AND WAS RUNNER UP FOR THE XXL WOMEN'S DIVISION FOR BIG WAVE RIDING AT AGE 45. NOW I AM GETTING CLOSE TO BEING A WOMEN WHO SURFS IN HER 50'! IT ONLY GETS BETTER!!!