can become when the surf is good? Seems that they
are trying to get as many set waves
as they can oblivious to others in the line up. I was
witness to just that sort of surfer last week in Puerto
Rico when Maria's got really good. This one guy would paddle
for every set wave, yell others off, and after his ride
paddle back to the point and do the same thing. That aggro attitude
might serve one well in a competition or for others in business,
but I'm not so sure it's a great life strategy.
Rob Machado, one of the best competitive surfer's in the world
made an insightful comment in his recent movie "The Drifter".
He was in a rather remote village in Indo watching some children
play a game with rocks. They'd toss a rock up in the air and while
it was airborne attempt to pick up other rocks, kind of like the game
of jacks. One child would toss than pass the rock to another.
"I couldn't really figure out how you win" Machado commented.
"Maybe you just play and that's good enough".
I love the idea of having fun and playing. You might try it in the
lineup and in your life. You can still strive to do well, strive to achieve
or even win but as you do so remember "maybe you just play and that's
good enough".
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