I've been able to surf for the past few mornings.
The waves weren't at all epic, in fact, they were actually
pretty small. To be perfectly honest, I needed my 9'6"
and/or my SUP to even catch waves. On set they were
barely thigh high, but I had a blast and the fun little morning
sessions with my good friends have served to set up my days.
No real surprise that my mood is better and the day goes
by faster when I start it off with a session in the water. I'm
not exactly sure what causes it, what makes the difference.
Perhaps it's those endorphins that make me feel good.
Maybe it's the opportunity to burn off some of those
stress chemicals that makes me feel so content, so happy
and at ease after a surf. Maybe it's being in the ocean and seeing
the beauty all around me. I'm not exactly sure. All I know
is that my life has been kind of stressful for the past few weeks
and I feel better when I surf.
What do you do each day that helps make you feel better,
helps you deal with stress? Surfing sure makes me feel better.