I've been able to surf for the past few mornings.
The waves weren't at all epic, in fact, they were actually
pretty small. To be perfectly honest, I needed my 9'6"
and/or my SUP to even catch waves. On set they were
barely thigh high, but I had a blast and the fun little morning
sessions with my good friends have served to set up my days.
No real surprise that my mood is better and the day goes
by faster when I start it off with a session in the water. I'm
not exactly sure what causes it, what makes the difference.
Perhaps it's those endorphins that make me feel good.
Maybe it's the opportunity to burn off some of those
stress chemicals that makes me feel so content, so happy
and at ease after a surf. Maybe it's being in the ocean and seeing
the beauty all around me. I'm not exactly sure. All I know
is that my life has been kind of stressful for the past few weeks
and I feel better when I surf.
What do you do each day that helps make you feel better,
helps you deal with stress? Surfing sure makes me feel better.
3 comments:
Not getting to surf on a day when I was planning to makes me feel anxious. I guess I could mind surf. I remember I would practice basketball or volleyball in my head during church service. I wonder if God knew?
Reading your blog I often find myself nodding. I substitute freediving for surfing and find that your experiences mirror my own. Whether it's surfing, swimming or diving I think the healing energy of the ocean is what it is all about. When you're out there everything kind of gets puts into perspective.
Thanks for writing your blog - it feeds me all the right kind of stuff.
Roberta
Yes it does make it better! It is definetly a cleansing of the soul, of your surroundings, of whatever has you down. Now if only I could shed that wetsuit! Keep up the good word sir!
Thank you, Ken "B Unique"
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