It's not the obvious

Back in the water! It's difficult to describe just

how wonderful it is to be back surfing. I realize that

seven weeks is really not much time in the big scheme

of things. My seven week hiatus has taught me a bunch

of interesting lessons about myself, about surfing, and

about life.

Sitting in the lineup talking to my friends is somehow

very different than sitting on the beach or in someone's

yard. The feeling of being amongst old friends laughing,

teasing, watching each other is special. Most people who

don't surf see a break with lots of people in the water.

That's the obvious but it's not the obvious that I missed,

not the just simple act of riding a wave. It was the whole

experience that I longed for. The feel of the water, the

ebb and flow of the swell, the fish, the warmth of the sun and

of friends.

Many people look at life and see what is the

most obvious, most observable. They notice

what kind of house you live in, your clothes, or the

car you drive. They often get hung up on appearances

yet never realize that what is not so obvious can be

more important, more fulfilling and satisfying.