Monday, July 20, 2009

It's not the obvious

Back in the water! It's difficult to describe just
how wonderful it is to be back surfing. I realize that
seven weeks is really not much time in the big scheme
of things. My seven week hiatus has taught me a bunch
of interesting lessons about myself, about surfing, and
about life.

Sitting in the lineup talking to my friends is somehow
very different than sitting on the beach or in someone's
yard. The feeling of being amongst old friends laughing,
teasing, watching each other is special. Most people who
don't surf see a break with lots of people in the water.
That's the obvious but it's not the obvious that I missed,
not the just simple act of riding a wave. It was the whole
experience that I longed for. The feel of the water, the
ebb and flow of the swell, the fish, the warmth of the sun and
of friends.

Many people look at life and see what is the
most obvious, most observable. They notice
what kind of house you live in, your clothes, or the
car you drive. They often get hung up on appearances
yet never realize that what is not so obvious can be
more important, more fulfilling and satisfying.

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