share with the ones you care about? What do you
hope they'll get from your sharing? What lessons
and experiences are you hoping they'll learn? We
Surfers love to share the stoke. Why?
Two recent experiences put me in touch with our
desire to "pass it on" to others. I took both my grandkids
to the beach the other morning. We strolled along the sand,
looked at shells and sand crabs, and Simon (my grandson)
walked on the deck of a surfboard. He smiled as he walked.
Thanks to the boards rocker, as he approached its' nose,
the board bounced a bit. Rather than getting scared he laughed
and moved closer to the nose bouncing as he went. As soon as
he reached the end he put his little toes
over the edge, spun around, and walked back to the tail laughing
all the way. Simon walked and bounced about 10 times before
it was time to go home. He didn't want to leave. It was too much
fun, this walking on a board. I thought a lot, as we headed home,
about just how much I want to "pass on" surfing and all its' lessons
to my grandkids.
There is a photo and podcast posted on Jim Moriarty's blog
Ocean Beaches and Waves (www.oceansbeachesandwaves.blogspot.com)
of Norman Ollestad. Ollestad is the author of the best selling book
"Crazy for the Storm". The photo, podcast, and the book all
touch upon the same theme "passing it on". Ollestad speaks of the
lessons his father taught him in the surf and how those lessons saved
his life. He also spoke about his wish to "pass it on" to his own children.
Surfing and our love for all it has to offer touches us in ways we feel
compelled to share. Despite the crowds, despite it's popularity we
still want to share not only the stoke but the real lessons to be learned
from the surfing life.