friend Brian's wife Janice. She'd battled cancer for too long
and died friday night at home amongst the people
she loved. At the memorial service I heard someone
ask Brian "did you get in the water this weekend?"
How odd and inappropriate that question must have
seemed to some of the distant family members and
friends paying their respects. What kind of idiot would
ask such a question of a man who'd just lost his soul mate,
his wife, his lover? " I did" Brian replied. "It was the only
thing that kept me sane, kept me together...when I was in the
water, for a time I was all right".
As surfers we all can relate to what Brian said. We've
all experienced the healing and soothing
power of the ocean and of surfing. We've all probably had
some kind of experience where we've found solace, peace, and
escape in the waves.
There are surely many explanations and reasons why
we find surfing such a powerful and potent experience. It's really not
that important to know why is it?. Let's just be grateful
that we can, and do.
Did you get in the water today?