really, really good. Another morning of light offshores
and surf. My patience continues to be put to the test.
Let's see that's 9 days in a row 15 out of the 24 days that I've
been sidelined. "Patience grasshopper" my friends all say.
"I don't even want to tell you how good it is" caring friends
are saying. " I won;t even talk about it." At least I've
learned to laugh and take some pleasure at
being called "the sacrifice".
Today is the kind of day that surfers scheme and try to
figure out all sorts of ways to blow off work and shirk most
other responsibilities. Bosses get called, lawns don't get mowed,
kids get taken to sitters all to stay in the water as much as
possible. Days like today, and stretches like this, are rare
As I sat watching and mindsurfing in the early morning
sunlight I heard my friend Ryan tell another surfer who
was about to call his wife and ask if he could stay out a bit longer.
" today's the kind of day you don't ask permission, you
surf and beg for forgiveness later." How true.