How many things in your life do you feel passionate about? How many
of your interests span a lifetime?
I've found in my practice that virtually all people who are depressed have never
been passionate about a hobby. Recent research suggests that the more time
people spend in nature the greater their sense of well-being. Perhaps that's why
surfing helps keep me more balanced. I still can't wait to get up in the morning
when I think there will be waves. I'm still stoked! I love being in the water and
connecting with the life in the ocean. Mike Orbach, Ph.D. former director of
the Duke University Marine Lab and former Surfrider Board Chairman, often
speaks about the perspective from out in the lineup. We see things from a different
vantage point looking inward at the shoreline. Perhaps the normal stresses of life
appear different from the water looking from a distance.
I've been surfing for a bit over 45 years to answer Michael Tomson's question.
It gives me a great deal.