Monday, September 8, 2008

Surfed out

East coasters do not generally know how to pace
themselves when there are waves.  After 2 great days
of  overhead surf, courtesy of Hanna, some people are actually 
saying that they are "surfed out". What exactly do
they mean? What are the symptoms of being "surfed out"?

I think it's the sore muscles from surfing 6-8 hours per
day for 2 days straight combined with the euphoric state of
mind.  Maybe it's the state of physical exhaustion complicated
by mental well being and an intense desire for more.  This
state might be caused by poor conditioning, overzealousness, or
simply an odd mentality that east coasters seem to have.  We 
are gluttons and when we get waves we gorge.  We can't pace ourselves
very well.

Poor health habits, gluttony, gorging, and an inability to pace ones self.
Habits that surely can get you in trouble.  No more time to write I've got
to stretch and get back in the water.  No telling what tomorrow will bring.
All I know is that the water and air are warm and the surf pumping.  Do I
sound like an addict?  Hum...wonder if there is a 12 step program I should
look in to?

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