Tuesday, September 30, 2008


Oft times in surfing we await the intersection of
seemingly unrelated factors in order to bring us
 the greatest joy.  Think about it for a few seconds. 
We need wind, daylight, swell, and tide to all come together
for those peak experiences, those unforgettable sessions.

That doesn't mean we can't have a great day without
everything coming together exactly as we'd like.  The past few
days here in NJ have been a good example.  We had the swell
but, for the most part, not the wind.  This morning we had the
wind but not the tide.  Tonight we have the tide and wind, but not
the swell.  That's life.

Yesterday morning I had a really fun session.  Sure we had a
decent bit of swell and the tide and my schedule lined up
perfectly, but, we didn't have the wind.  What I did have was
a beautiful warm, sunny morning, the chance to surf a break
with Ray, a friend with a true aloha spirit, and 2 other strangers
who were happy just being out.  I was riding a board I love and
actually scored a few great sections.  

In surfing and in life we shouldn't need everything to come together
perfectly.  If we look at the things that do come together and make
the most of what we get we can really be happy.  Sure we hope for
that perfect confluence, that perfect coming together, but life's seldom

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