Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Surf girls get their boards

The "40 something surf girls" custom ordered surfboards
have finally arrived!  Sure it took forever for them to get here
and Bill Stewart and his gang in San Clemente should be ashamed
of themselves - (4 months, come on Bill), but the boards are here
and the "surf girls" are stoked!

What surfer will ever forget that first new board?  
Mine was a 10'2", orange, Lanai Kai pop out purchased for 
 $100 or so from a local sporting goods store. Why
I got a 10'2" I'll never know as I was probably weighed all 
of 125 lbs. soaking wet.  Who cared.  It was mine! 
I've had lots of new boards in the
45 or so years since then.   I probably would have a
tough time even remembering them all.  Ah but that first
board. I often search garage sales, flea markets, and craig's list
to see it someone might be selling it, selling an important piece
of my surfing life.

The "40 something surf girls" have displayed amazing patience
 and grace over the last months.  They've waited with great anticipation
and resisted getting angry or upset.  Sure they missed having
their own boards for the fall season, but the waiting almost
seemed to add to their stoke.  As one of them said the other day
before the news of their arrival came, " I can't get upset by things
like that, what good will it do? The board will come eventually."
What a great outlook.  What a great lesson.

It's a long time until late April or May when the water here in
NJ begins to warm up.  Let's see if their patience holds out,
after all the water temperature is still in the 50's and a 4 mil
wet suit works.  Let's watch and see what happens if we get a
sunny warm day with fun looking surf.  What do you think?


Surfrider Foundation International Program said...

They gotta surf-in the New Year! I bet they'll go for a short session to welcome 2009, polar bear style! See p. 15 of "Eddie Would Go" by Stuart Coleman for inspiration.'s+day+keaulana&source=web&ots=ggyEit8Pk2&sig=Ycgfi-Ic6ykmbqA2wGd4uF38BDQ&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=5&ct=result

40something said...

Does this bet actually involve wagering or is it simply a figure of speech??